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Todd Bartrim wrote:
So please post any comments as to your opinion of the product. I
understand that may be some time before you run your engine, but let us know
about the application process as well.
Ah! My 'opinion'. Just like butts, everybody has one, and most stink; but here's my impression.
Preparation is key. I've seen several recommendations for an alcohol wipe down. I'll be soaking my rotors in a bucket of MEK. You have to use a sandblasting media that will gouge the surface. Glass beads smash and smooth the surface, so they're not a good choice. Silica or aluminum oxide are the best choices.
Next up is application thickness. Spray just enough to get a solid color. A thick coat will do just like paint...shrink and crack.
The TechLine Coatings have to be baked. 300F degrees for an hour for the non-professional products. The babbit in the bearings is good to 350. The professional products cook at a higher temp (400?, and give off hazardous gases in the process), and so would not be compatible with the babbit. I'm going to go out later and see if I can find a toaster oven large enough for the rotors. Supposedly, you can use the non-professional products in a food oven, but I ain't goin' there, considering there will probably be residual oils baking off at the same time that would ruin the oven. I've never developed a taste for Quaker State biscuits.
I'm going to use the WSJ lubricant on the side and intermediate housings after I lap them, just because it is simple and convenient to do. I make no representation of what the long term efficacy will be. It is a complete experiment that will take years to show any results (and how would I test it without a control anyway), but it is only about $25. I'll also see if I can coat the oil, corner, side and apex seals, but I don't hold much hope for that to be effective at all.
I thought about coating the journal sections of the crank with the ceramic lubricant, but that's just silly I think. The point of journaled bearings is that oil is pressed into the joint, and there isn't any metal-to-metal contact. There'd be no gain for the work required. Many of the service coat the oil pump, also. Again, seeing how the pump is immersed in oil, I don't see much gain in the work involved. Coating the main and rotor gears should be useful, as will coating the crank drive gear.
I couldn't help but notice the "no airplane" symbol beside each product
referring to the shipping, but I'd bet if you told them your intentions for
use, they'd say it applies there as well.
That means it can't be shipped by air, because it is a hazardous chemical. But you knew that and were just pulling my leg. Right?
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