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Jeff Liot is making the mod for some guys. I don't have his email address.
Jeff got his experience rebuilding the drive because after Lou died, Chris
machined these things with gross runout conditions. It cause Jeff's to wear
prematurely twice before he finally nailed the cause. Mine too had gross runout
of different component. If I recall, something like .020"!
I've looked at a number of redrives, astounded as to the differences
between them. Fundamental design differences. I modified mine couple years ago
after I heard of failure, then started measuring clearances and calculating
effect of differential heat expansion. I now have zero end clearance input
shaft. It dramatically affected input shaft noise, effects. No longer affected
by heat expansion. No more risk of clutch plate fatigue. I used to dismantle
drive every few hours, now have faith in it.
I was able to "prove" I don't have oil flow issue by putting few tiny
pieces of foam inside and letting the foam displace by the oil. My version of
drive has good oil flow at sun and planets. I don't have clue as to other
models.
I have 1.85:1 ratio.
-al wick, professional lurker
After rereading Ben's note I see that the subject Ross is on a Subaru;
but the Subaru guys are also having trouble with the Ross. I sometimes
read the Yahoo Subaru list and they have a guy that installs the thrust
bearing mod. Al Wick, do you have any info on this for mod
for Ben?
Ken Powell
Bryant, Arkansas
501-847-4721
RV-4
--------------
Original message --------------
Ben, as painful as this might be I would suggest you sell
the Ross drive if you will be running a 20B. Tom Parkes built a 20B
powered Lancair ES. The engine digested his Ross drive. Fortunatly it
wasn't a catastrophic failure, but sometime somebody running a high power
engine is going to have one. The Ross was a reasonably well made unit
for it's time, but many people have trouble running just a 13B engine.
Putting 50% more power and torque thru that unit is just risky. It
would be much better to sel it to somebody running a Subaru, (for which it
should be adaquate). You really need one of Tracy's later beefer late
model drives, (either ratio), to be safe. Tom Parkes is redoing his FWF
noew with Tracy's drive. I have an RV-10 and a 20B. I will run either
Tracy's RD-1C 2.85:1, or the Mistral redrive approx ratio 2.82:1. I
consider the Mistral drive which costs almost 3 times as much as Tracy's
only because it is set up for a HYD CS prop from the start.
Bill Jepson -----Original
Message----- From: Dale Rogers <dale.r@cox.net> To: Rotary
motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> Sent: Tue, 14 Jun
2005 11:27:54 -0400 Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Ross unit
disassembly
Ben,
It sounds as though you also need to check the thrust
bearing. IIRC, there is an upgrade for that, which greatly
increases the longevity of the drive.
Dale R.
> From: "Ben Baltrusaitis" <ben@gmpexpress.net>
> Date: 2005/06/14 Tue AM 06:35:32 EDT
> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Ross unit disassembly
>
> Kelly, it's a 2.17.
> It appears that the four nuts on the back side hold the input shaft bearing
with big flat washers. Unfortunately, the bearing allows the shaft to move up
and down a lot and their is too much shaft movement forward and back. Their was
a reverberation at 3200 rpm that sounded like it was coming from the planetary
gear.
> This is on a Subaru engine, not a rotary. My 20B is still on my workbench.
> Thanks!
> Ben
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kelly Troyer
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
> Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 1:19 AM
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Ross unit disassembly
>
>
> Ben,
> Is your Ross drive 2.17-1 or 2.85-1 ?
> --
> Kelly Troyer
> Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------- Original message from "Ben Baltrusaitis"
<ben@gmpexpress.net>: --------------
>
>
> I need to get my Ross redrive apart to check the planetary gear. I have
the whole unit off the engine and the 16 nuts off the cone where the planetary
gear is located, but I can't get it to come apart.
>
> Do I have to take the four nuts off the back side to get the cone off?
> I don't have assembly instructions. I would really appreciate someone's
help!
> Thanks!
> Ben
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
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>
>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
>> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
-al wick
Artificial intelligence in
cockpit, Cozy IV powered by stock Subaru 2.5
N9032U 200+ hours on
engine/airframe from Portland, Oregon
Prop construct, Subaru install, Risk
assessment, Glass panel design
info:
http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/alwick/index.html
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