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I have dismantled 2 factory reman (that's what the tag said) with low mileage & none of the components were anywhere near factory specs. (apex seal slots, ect..) So if you don't feel competent to overall a 13b get someone who is, don't fly with an unknown, you can't park at 3000ft.
Georges B.
-------Original Message-------
Date: 06/06/05 11:42:09
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Un-touched engine (was: EC2 problems - solved / rotary risks)
On Jun 6, 2005, at 12:17 PM, Ian Dewhirst wrote:
> Hi Bill,
>
> I am a proponent of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." if you have some
> history with the mechanical device in question. On the other hand,
> when
> that history is unknown, not knowing can bite you.
>
> I bought a "Brand New" 13B - trouble was it had a bit of water in the
> coolant jacket, which corroded the iron castings. Everything in oil
> looked
> brand new. The coolant passages were another story, after bead
> blasting the
> coolant passages until they were clean I did a bit of destructive
> testing on
> the castings with a dremel, just a bit because they looked fine... a
> minute
> later I was pretty dissapointed, went through like butter in some
> places
> ( like near the coolant o rings), just turned into black dust. $1500
> later
> I think I have an engine that is as good as it is going to get.
>
> Don't be put off working on a rotary, these engines are easy to work
> on, buy
> a couple of good torque wrenches, a box of sandwich bags, a sharpie,
> take
> pictures as you go and take your time - try it out on a junker 13B the
> first
> time to build confidence.
>
> Even factory rebuilds have the occasional issue - I apprenticed at a
> Porsche
> / Audi dealership. I witnessed a $25,000 (1980 dollars) 3 litre 911
> long
> block throw a rod in the first couple of minutes after start up,
> missing
> connecting rod nut on one side of the cap - sh!t happens.
>
> FWIW
>
> Ian
>
I agree. Of the four engines I have put in RX-7's, the one that leaks
the most oil, is the factory reman I put in without taking apart.
Hans
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