Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #64703
From: Ronald STEVENS <Ronald@sdc.com>
Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [LML] Identifying separate bypass for fuel priming
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2013 08:04:26 -0500
To: <lml@lancaironline.net>
I installed a purge valve as i did also been caught in the past by having hot start problems. Most 'tricks' work, but murphy's law dictate it will not work when alone, in the dark on a airfield without fbo lol
The purge valve is the first I use when my first hot start fails, I like to save my starter from getting to hot ;)-

Ronald Stevens LNC4p  >250hours and loving it....



On Feb 23, 2013, at 10:58 PM, George Wehrung <gw5@me.com> wrote:

All,

I actually got home today to fly the grey lady. It was a great flight to French Valley until I stalled taxiing and could not get the hot start to work for me. Quite embarrassing. So got back to home base and popped the top cowl off and noticed what I beleive to be a separate fuel priming circuit. I see the normal lines that run thru the fuel pump, gascolator, fuel flow transmitter and into the manifold on the right side of the intake manifold. Then the fuel path crosses over the top in a small stainless line to the spider manifold on the left side. 

Oh yeah, IO-550-N. non turbo. 

Then I noticed a pair of black rubber coated fuel lines on the left side of the engine that go to the intake manifold and the spider. The one to the spider looks like a drain line whereas the one to the manifold on the left side appears to be a priming circuit. 

So with what I beleive to be a priming circuit is there a different procedure for hot starts to move the vaporized fuel out of the injector lines?



Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 23, 2013, at 14:41, Sky2high@aol.com wrote:

Angier,
 
With the strut fully extended a little play may not be as important as the same play when weight is on the nose wheel and the strut is some compressed.  In this case, the test is to use two steel/Al plates with grease between them placed under the nose wheel whilst on the floor and the strut has weight on it.  Then you should be able to turn the wheel without too much effort and perhaps see if there is play - simulated taxi condition.
 
Grayhawk
 
In a message dated 2/23/2013 4:32:37 P.M. Central Standard Time, N4ZQ@verizon.net writes:
I removed the fork this morning and inspected the strut which was dry inside.
Bled off the pressure and removed the little valve stem piece thingy, collapsed the strut and no oil came out.
I added a bit more than 1oz of fork oil which was just enough to have the oil flow from the valve with the strut collapsed.
Worked the nose wheel side to side and could hear some air inside so kept doing this as well as collapsing/extending the strut. After a while, no air bubbles could be heard. But I have one observation and don't know if it's normal or not since I don't know how the dampening is accomplished inside. With the wheel centered or in any other position right or left, I can move the wheel perhaps a degree or two either side and don't feel as much dampening as I do when turning the wheel further left or right. Seems like a dead or null zone either side of where the wheel is positioned. I'll check again in the morning and then pressurize the strut and then see how it feels.

My tire pressures are 60 on the mains and 55 on the nose as recommended by a well known Lancair GURU...
Thorough inspection of the engine mount shows all normal and wheel bearings are correctly loaded.

Angier Ames
N4ZQ
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