I installed a purge valve as i did also been caught in the past by having hot start problems. Most 'tricks' work, but murphy's law dictate it will not work when alone, in the dark on a airfield without fbo lol The purge valve is the first I use when my first hot start fails, I like to save my starter from getting to hot ;)- Ronald Stevens LNC4p >250hours and loving it....
On Feb 23, 2013, at 10:58 PM, George Wehrung < gw5@me.com> wrote: All,
I actually got home today to fly the grey lady. It was a great flight to French Valley until I stalled taxiing and could not get the hot start to work for me. Quite embarrassing. So got back to home base and popped the top cowl off and noticed what I beleive to be a separate fuel priming circuit. I see the normal lines that run thru the fuel pump, gascolator, fuel flow transmitter and into the manifold on the right side of the intake manifold. Then the fuel path crosses over the top in a small stainless line to the spider manifold on the left side.
Oh yeah, IO-550-N. non turbo.
Then I noticed a pair of black rubber coated fuel lines on the left side of the engine that go to the intake manifold and the spider. The one to the spider looks like a drain line whereas the one to the manifold on the left side appears to be a priming circuit.
So with what I beleive to be a priming circuit is there a different procedure for hot starts to move the vaporized fuel out of the injector lines?
Sent from my iPhone
Angier,
With the strut fully extended a little play may not be as important as
the same play when weight is on the nose wheel and the strut is some
compressed. In this case, the test is to use two steel/Al plates with
grease between them placed under the nose wheel whilst on the floor and the
strut has weight on it. Then you should be able to turn the wheel without
too much effort and perhaps see if there is play - simulated taxi
condition.
Grayhawk
In a message dated 2/23/2013 4:32:37 P.M. Central Standard Time,
N4ZQ@verizon.net writes:
I
removed the fork this morning and inspected the strut which was dry
inside. Bled off the pressure and removed the little valve stem piece
thingy, collapsed the strut and no oil came out. I added a bit more than
1oz of fork oil which was just enough to have the oil flow from the valve with
the strut collapsed. Worked the nose wheel side to side and could hear some
air inside so kept doing this as well as collapsing/extending the strut. After
a while, no air bubbles could be heard. But I have one observation and don't
know if it's normal or not since I don't know how the dampening is
accomplished inside. With the wheel centered or in any other position right or
left, I can move the wheel perhaps a degree or two either side and don't feel
as much dampening as I do when turning the wheel further left or right. Seems
like a dead or null zone either side of where the wheel is positioned. I'll
check again in the morning and then pressurize the strut and then see how it
feels.
My tire pressures are 60 on the mains and 55 on the nose as
recommended by a well known Lancair GURU... Thorough inspection of the
engine mount shows all normal and wheel bearings are correctly
loaded.
Angier Ames N4ZQ -- For archives and unsub
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