Angier,

 

With the strut fully extended a little play may not be as important as the same play when weight is on the nose wheel and the strut is some compressed.  In this case, the test is to use two steel/Al plates with grease between them placed under the nose wheel whilst on the floor and the strut has weight on it.  Then you should be able to turn the wheel without too much effort and perhaps see if there is play - simulated taxi condition.

 

Grayhawk

 

I removed the fork this morning and inspected the strut which was dry inside.
Bled off the pressure and removed the little valve stem piece thingy, collapsed the strut and no oil came out.
I added a bit more than 1oz of fork oil which was just enough to have the oil flow from the valve with the strut collapsed.
Worked the nose wheel side to side and could hear some air inside so kept doing this as well as collapsing/extending the strut. After a while, no air bubbles could be heard. But I have one observation and don't know if it's normal or not since I don't know how the dampening is accomplished inside. With the wheel centered or in any other position right or left, I can move the wheel perhaps a degree or two either side and don't feel as much dampening as I do when turning the wheel further left or right. Seems like a dead or null zone either side of where the wheel is positioned. I'll check again in the morning and then pressurize the strut and then see how it feels.

My tire pressures are 60 on the mains and 55 on the nose as recommended by a well known Lancair GURU...
Thorough inspection of the engine mount shows all normal and wheel bearings are correctly loaded.

Angier Ames
N4ZQ
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