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I bought the Atkins O ring kit but got the Teflon inner seals (for one of my 13B rew TT cores). They didn’t fit so i made a plywood form and stretched them a bit. Went into engine ok with Hylomar. We shall see how this rebuild works out.
Fwiw the outer 0 rings did not have the profile shown in the workshop manual, either.
So far it pops on all seals when rotated with my wrench.
Marc
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 27, 2025, at 10:29 PM, Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
I was unable to get compression on more than one chamber.
So I removed the engine from the RV-3B today.
I decided to heat the front bolt with a propane torch for several minutes when my HF 3' breaker bar began to deflect noticeably. Then it broke loose.
Fortunately I still have the rear nut remover that I fabricated (by hand, no less) and welded up back in the late 90ies. Still needed a 2x4 to keep engine from moving. Also had to heat the nut with a propane torch. Wood block splintered, so used a 5" socket extension between counterweight tip and bottom right rear plate corner. Recommend using edge area of rear plate that is not used in your application, just in case it breaks off. Evidence of threadlocker on both front bolt and big nut. Required a rivet gun with mushroom head on the rear shaft to get the counterweight off.
Interesting that he rebuild uTube videos I've been watching do not mention threadlocker on front bolt and rear nut.
Anticipate several days of cleaning before I'll know what to order.
I wonder if the $80 "reusable" o-ring kit on eBay is junk or if safe to use.
Finn
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