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No problem.
One of the o-rings has carbon build-up
near it.
Wondering if I should add the
protection piece mentioned in the Hayes RX-7 manual?
Perhaps make it out of SS shim stock?
Not sure if need to replace that
o-ring. Clean off the carbon and rejuvenate with something (what
will make it swell a bit?)?
Finn
Sorry Finn, I didn't mean for anyone to have to read that
thread, is why I saved the important bits.
I think it valid to reuse orings if you can, in
my case the original Mazda orings had swelled slightly and
were a bugger to keep in the grooves so I made new ones. The
superglue was supplied with the cord so I don't know which
version, I just cut & glued to length. I did also add a
very small amount of rtv just where the join was just to be
sure.
Thanks Andrew. I suffered through all 80+ posts in that
thread and my head is spinning. My main question about the
inner o-rings: the Mazda ones are not butt-end spliced but
overlapped about an inch, why?
What's the difference between iso- and cyan- superglue
when it comes to splicing o-rings?
But I might just reuse my existing o-rings. Still soft.
May not even pull the oil control rings.
May get new dowel o-rings as they have set a bit.
Finn
This is the notes on o'rings from my build, Info
came from Ausrotary forum members, I just saved the
relevant info along with the workshop manual for my
engine, a 13b Renisis, your o'ring lengths may vary
slightly depending on model. Basically its just get
the right sized cord, cut it to length, glue ends with
superglue.
Andrew
Any information on how to make your
own "o" rings?
Hi Finn
You can make your own orings.
Actually this is now my preference as it is
extremely cheap & reliable process.
that plane must be a real hoot
to fly. Do you want to send it to Australia?
I was unable to get compression on more than
one chamber.
So I removed the engine from the RV-3B today.
I decided to heat the front bolt with a
propane torch for several
minutes when my HF 3' breaker bar began to
deflect noticeably. Then it
broke loose.
Fortunately I still have the rear nut remover
that I fabricated (by
hand, no less) and welded up back in the late
90ies. Still needed a 2x4
to keep engine from moving. Also had to heat
the nut with a propane
torch. Wood block splintered, so used a 5"
socket extension between
counterweight tip and bottom right rear plate
corner. Recommend using
edge area of rear plate that is not used in
your application, just in
case it breaks off. Evidence of threadlocker
on both front bolt and big
nut. Required a rivet gun with mushroom head
on the rear shaft to get
the counterweight off.
Interesting that he rebuild uTube videos I've
been watching do not
mention threadlocker on front bolt and rear
nut.
Anticipate several days of cleaning before
I'll know what to order.
I wonder if the $80 "reusable" o-ring kit on
eBay is junk or if safe to use.
Finn
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