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Sorry Finn, I didn't mean for anyone to have to read that thread, is why I saved the important bits. I think it valid to reuse orings if you can, in my case the original Mazda orings had swelled slightly and were a bugger to keep in the grooves so I made new ones. The superglue was supplied with the cord so I don't know which version, I just cut & glued to length. I did also add a very small amount of rtv just where the join was just to be sure.
Thanks Andrew. I suffered through all
80+ posts in that thread and my head is spinning. My main question
about the inner o-rings: the Mazda ones are not butt-end spliced
but overlapped about an inch, why?
What's the difference between iso- and
cyan- superglue when it comes to splicing o-rings?
But I might just reuse my existing
o-rings. Still soft. May not even pull the oil control rings.
May get new dowel o-rings as they have
set a bit.
Finn
This is the notes on o'rings from my build, Info came from
Ausrotary forum members, I just saved the relevant info along
with the workshop manual for my engine, a 13b Renisis, your
o'ring lengths may vary slightly depending on model. Basically
its just get the right sized cord, cut it to length, glue ends
with superglue.
Andrew
Any information on how to make your own "o" rings?
Hi Finn
You can make your own orings. Actually
this is now my preference as it is extremely cheap
& reliable process.
that plane must be a real hoot to fly.
Do you want to send it to Australia?
I was unable to get compression on more than one
chamber.
So I removed the engine from the RV-3B today.
I decided to heat the front bolt with a propane torch
for several
minutes when my HF 3' breaker bar began to deflect
noticeably. Then it
broke loose.
Fortunately I still have the rear nut remover that I
fabricated (by
hand, no less) and welded up back in the late 90ies.
Still needed a 2x4
to keep engine from moving. Also had to heat the nut
with a propane
torch. Wood block splintered, so used a 5" socket
extension between
counterweight tip and bottom right rear plate corner.
Recommend using
edge area of rear plate that is not used in your
application, just in
case it breaks off. Evidence of threadlocker on both
front bolt and big
nut. Required a rivet gun with mushroom head on the
rear shaft to get
the counterweight off.
Interesting that he rebuild uTube videos I've been
watching do not
mention threadlocker on front bolt and rear nut.
Anticipate several days of cleaning before I'll know
what to order.
I wonder if the $80 "reusable" o-ring kit on eBay is
junk or if safe to use.
Finn
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