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Hi Bob,
0.25mm pitch is distance between the pins of a device. Generally referred to as fine pitch. The larger 0.5mm pitch devices are no problem even for me with a iron.
Actually, I have been thinking about what you suggested, but a much simpler version. Use a platform (on which to secure the PC board moving in the +-X direction (on rollers/slides) and an arm above the platform (with magnifying lens) that moves in the +- Y direction (across the board). Then take the wands from one of the inexpensive vacuum picks one the end of the arm and permit it to move up and down in the Z (vertical) direction. The Arm could also be move to the side to permit picking up components from a tray.
That would permit placing any area of the board under the vacuum wand pick up area. The wand could also be rotated around the Z axis to place a component correctly. Nothing new here - a number of commercial devices operate on this principal - but too expensive for my hobby.
I don't really want to get into building these aids too much as the objective is to build boards, but necessity...etc.
ED
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:15 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Cooked Board - Really!
Ed,
Maybe your next project should be to build a robotic arm that is PLC
controlled to place the components. I am sure that if you look on ebay, you
will be able to find the components:>). But if you take the time and the
trouble to do that then the price would shoot up to cover start up cost.
Don't even think of it.
I know the problems that you are having placing the components, because I
had the same problems just soldering components on Creativair nav lights.
Couldn't't see the end of the components, and not being able to determine
depth made me more the nervous, but I got them together and they look great.
Dumb question, when you say .025 pitch are you talking about the distance
between the components solder pads or between component terminals?
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On
Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:26 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Cooked Board - Really!
Hi Chad,
Appears there are many more ways than one to skin this cat.
I've read of some using the Hot plate and one using a soup mug heater -
amazing what will work.
Appreciate the tips on soldering, I'll work on them. I find 0805 tiny
enough , no 0603 or 0402 thank you {:>).
Part of my personal problem is I only have one good eye, which means no
binocular depth perception and no paraxial. It can be a bit of challenge to
get a soldering iron and piece of solder and a component all at the same
point in space at the same time {:>).
That is one reason why I stopped building any circuits but those I could use
a PC board for.
The oven worked fine - but as you pointed out, you do have to move the board
to the oven risking shifting some of the components or heaven forbid
dropping the board.
I've got two more boards to try. I may decided to iron solder the 0.25mm
socket as the plastic stencil simply does not have the fidelity for the
smaller traces. That is the only component that failed due to the solder
bridges - and of course I can find my wick to try and pull the solder out.
Got some out with a sucker but not enough.
Thanks again for the soldering tips.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad Robinson" <crj@lucubration.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:32 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Cooked Board - Really!
Ed, try an electric hot plate. It's even easier to do - you can even put
the components on the board and then heat it up without having to move it
into the oven, risking knocking something off.
If you get your temperature profile right, and use the right amount of
solder, the parts should self-align. Also, believe it or not,
hand-soldering these parts isn't as hard as it sounds. With a fine-tip
iron (I file mine to a sharp point) you just touch the iron to the
device's leg, and tap the solder there very quickly. It makes a quick,
tidy joint, and is almost as fast. I've been able to do 0.25 pitch and
0603 parts this way. It sounds like a pain, but 99% of the work is in the
placement anyway. Tapping an iron on there quickly is a piece of cake.
If you use a good resin, and be sure to remove it with a cleaner, you can
make this even easier. You just put a dab of resin where you want solder -
a toothpick is perfect. Then tap a well-tinned iron to the joint between
leg and board, and the resin will suck the solder right off the iron,
exactly the right amount. I get perfect-looking joints this way, and no
mucking about with stencils and solder paste.
Regards,
Chad
Ed Anderson wrote:
My highly advanced GE convection reflow oven cost $38.99 and that part of
the experiment work perfectly. Besides, I don't have room for one that
size, Mike {:>)
The most difficult part of the experiment was placing the components
without rubbing the solder paste off the pad and knocking another
component askew. I now understand why they talked about "arm rests". It
doesn't take much to get misalign.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
*From:* Michael LaFleur <mailto:mike.lafleur@sbcglobal.net>
*To:* Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
*Sent:* Thursday, February 22, 2007 8:40 PM
*Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Cooked Board - Really!
This reflow oven failed to sell at auction today for $750.
Mike LaFleur
----- Original Message ----
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com
<mailto:eanderson@carolina.rr.com>>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net
<mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 3:32:32 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Cooked Board - Really!
Well, today was the day. Got the missing SMD component in and I
cooked my first SMD PC board in my new toaster oven.
The results were not totally successful, but satisfactory in that
it didn't come out too bad for a first try and I learned several
things.
Here are a few photos for those of you interested.
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com <mailto:eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
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