Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #26935
From: Tracy Crook <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Help!! Installing Tracy's apex seals
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 08:36:54 -0400
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Been a long time since I looked at the video but I thought it indicated corner piece toward flywheel.  It should DEFINITELY be done this way when using used rotor housings in order to match up wear patterns.  Follow Leon's excellent instructions on super glue use.
 
Tracy
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 12:29 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Help!! Installing Tracy's apex seals

Leon, thanks so much.  That post is a keeper. 
 
Dave Leonard

 
On 10/13/05, Leon Promet <leonp@pacific.net.au> wrote:
Yair G'Day Dave,
 
END PIECES
 
The easy way is to glue the end pieces on with superglue.  All late model Madza seals are supplied pre-glued. Trouble is,  if you have to dissassemb;le the engine,  they need to be re-glued.  I've been doing this for 25 years now.  All you need is just a TINY drop.  Lay a piece of "Gladwrap" down on a FLAT surface,  lightly oil your fingers and wipe gently with a rag (so the superglue doesn't stick to them),  and make sure the mating surfaces of the apex end piece and the apex seal itself is clinically clean (I use carby-clean,  but nail polish remover,  MEK,  or acetone does the job equally as well).  I normally give them a light scuff with some 800 wet&dry as well.
 
Put a SMALL drop of the superglue on the end of the apex seal,  lay it down on the "Gladwrap",  and then lay the end piece down and push together. Make sure that the sides are in the one plane (otherwise,  you won't get the endpiece past the corner seal). Voila!  C'est magnifique!
 
You then avoid this silly business of putting the end pieces in first (almost guaranteed to cause a problem as you can't see what you are doing).  Trim off any overflow of the superglue,  and then fit the seal trouble free. (As long as you made the superglue bond correctly! Otherwise they become "devil" pieces - where the devil did that go! REAL "fun" at 2:30 am on a Sunday morning when you have to be at scrutineering at 7:30 am - NOT!!!).
 
One other trick is to make sure that the end piece is SLIGHTLY up the diagonal.  The "pointy" end of the end piece needs to be SLIGHTLY proud of the top of the apex seal.  As the motor is torqued,  the end plate will push the end piece down the diagonal and will break the superglue bond - you can distinctly hear the clicks as the superglue lets go. (If you don't get it right,  you will have compression problems until the superglue bond breaks with the heat. (Go figure how I know!! (}:>)
 
SIDE SEAL FAIURE
 
As for your compression problems,  I reckon that you had a side seal SPRING collapse.  They tend to wear on the bends.  They don't have to wear much to seriuously compromise their strength.  Get one of the old ones and try bending it.  Most probably it will bend easily,  and probably break.  Once the spring fails,  the side seal itself is not properly supported,  and will in the fullness of time,  do what yours did - break! 
 
SEAL DURABILITY
 
As for the durability of the side seals themselves,  I've over the past 30 odd years, I've re-used second hand ones over & over in cheap rebuilds several times,  as long as they come up to thickness and depth and length specs.  But I ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS  replace the corner seal and side seal SPRINGS - EVERY rebuild, as well as ALWAYS fitting NEW corner seals.  90% of comprtession problems in rotaries comes from the corner seal clearances.   If the new seal is a little too tight,  you can usually make it fit by linishing off the top edges a little with some Wet&Dry (320 is about the right grade).  On second hand rotors,  the corner seal hole ends up slightly oval,  so a slightly bigger seal will fit if you reduce down the ends where the apex seal goes.
 
The corner seal should NOT fall out when you turn the rotor over. If it does,  it's too loose!!!  They should be a nice sliding fit with just enough resistance to NOT fall out when upside down.  If you measure each corner seal diameter,  you will find a variation.  Careful selection and fit will ensure perfect compression. Buy an extra packet of them to make sure you get the sizes right. 
 
They are cheap,  good insurance,  and it is just common sense that the side seal springs,  being so fine, (especially the REW ones) are pretty delicate little things.  BTW,  always use the latest corner seal springs too.  The twisted sheet ones (out of the REW and Renesis engines),  not the wire ones.  They are much more resistant to heat stress.
 
Enjoy,
 
Leon
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 6:16 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Help!! Installing Tracy's apex seals

 
In Bruce's video he talks about putting the corner piece of the apex seal toward the front of the engine.  But with Tracy's seals the corner piece is not attached. So I cannot get the apex seal spring to slide in because the corner piece (now down at the bottom of the slot) has slid back a little.
 
If I put the corner piece toward the rear of the engine, I am able to get everything in place just fine.
 
Is there any problem with putting the corner pieces in last (toward the rear of the engine)?

--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html



--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://membersaol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
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