This is the way I have it. When changing oil I obviously don't get to change all the oil. Whatever is in the cooler stays there. Don't see much of a problem with that.
I have my oil filter mounted directly on front cover output, then a line to what is the right side of the cooler in the attached picture and then out front and back up to the engine oil inlet. I have the usual home made bypass plate with pressure and temp senders mounted on the pad where the filter normally goes. Pretty simple (read "light") setup.

On Tracy's warning I purchased a new thermostat from Mazda. Of course that didn't save me from frying all bearings because of no oil pressure. Didn't know there were specific in and outputs on oil filters. Oil leaves the oil filter through the center hole. If you didn't notice the membrane covering the filter outlet holes, there was a certain logic to think that oil would enter through center hole and push the filter paper out towards the oil filter can - but that's wrong.

Finn

Bob White wrote:

Hi Thomas,

This may be a problem.  That's how I thought it was going to be when I
was thinking it went the other way, but now I would have to turn the
cooler upside down. Doing so will make the inlet hose stick out thru the
bottom of the cowl.  Very incovenient for routing the plumbing.
Mounting this oil cooler has been a major pain in the behind.  Come to
think of it, my biggest problems have been plumbing.

I may have to try it Ed's way and run the oil thru backwards if I can
convince myslef that I won't have a thermostat problem.

Bob W.



On Sat, 20 Aug 2005 14:17:59 -0500
"rijakits" <rijakits@cwpanama.net> wrote:

  

Bob,

just ot make sure, whatever position you mount the cooler, do it so that any
gas (trapped air, oil vapor, etc.) can be pushed out in FLOW-Direction, not
against it. Also make sure that the outlet is at the highest spot, even if
you have to mount the cooler a little crocked (un-estetic, but works!).
I remember some 20 years back BMW started to offer oil-coolers on their
bikes. Lots of them had trouble with oil-temp after oil-changes:
Oil would drain out of the cooler - oil-pump starts to load the cooler and
in the process trapps a good amount of air - inlet and outlet where facing
down for more estetic oil line routing (or cheaper, shorter lines :)).
Easiest fix was to mount the cooler up-side down, get 180º fittings and
mount the cooler lower so the orignal lines would fit - no more trapped air
as it was pushed out the outlet as the cooler filled up.
I believe the coolers were single pass.

Thomas J.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob White" <bob@bob-white.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 1:25 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil Cooler Connections


    

Thanks Ed (and Al also),

I was just writing a reply to Al give a little more detail, but his
observation seems to have been correct.  I thought the nut on the
bottom might have something to do with the thermostat that I thought
the stock Mazda coolers had.  Did you remove or disable the thermostat
or, am I mistaken in thinking it has one?

One other question that concerns me a little, I was told by Racing Beat
when I ordered the AN adaptors, that the Mazda cooler had a 16 MM and
an 18 MM fitting like the front and rear covers.  This cooler (from
Bruce T.) has two 18 MM threads.  Does the manual mention the thread
sizes?

Bob W.


On Sat, 20 Aug 2005 14:12:51 -0400
"Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com> wrote:

      

Bob,   I just checked the Mazda manual and it clearly shows the inlet
        

(oil
    

from engine oil pump) is the top fitting and outlet (to inlet on rear
housing)  the side fitting.  Now for what its worth I mistakenly hooked
        

mine
    

up as your labels indicate - then later realized my mistake - but, since
        

the
    

oil temps and pressures were fine, I never changed it to the correct
direction.

Ed