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Actually, I have put one back together in 30 minutes. But, I did not have to take off the front cover and I already had all the seals inplace and the engine back together. When I took it out and put it on the plane and put coolant in it, it leaked. Found I had one of the outer coolant "O" rings fall out and get pitched between rotor and side housing. It took me 2 hours to get it off the aircraft and probably 20 minutes to take it apart. It took another 30 minutes to put it back together after replacing the "O" ring. Off with the flywheel nut, counterweigh bolts, tension bolts and it comes apart, just about that quickly. The hardest thing I find to do working by myself is lift the e shaft and slip the center housing over the front lobe while hoping none of the coolant O rings drop down from it. I find what worked best for me is a 2x4 under the pulley end of the E shaft and that 2x4 sitting on the end of another one with a block under it. I step on the one using it as a lever and that pushes the e shaft up far enough to complete the job.
Yes, Jim, it does get faster the more times you do it. Just hope you remain slow {:>)
Ed
----- Original Message ----- From: "James Brewer" <alpha@concordnc.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2005 9:58 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Rotary Diagnosis please
Thanks, Kelly. I have a manual and I measured the oil seals but I may have
missed measuring the height. These rotary engines are simple with subtle
complexities. I think Ed said he could build on in 30 minutes, of course he's
had experience.;-) Maybe after I've rebuilt this one several times I'll get it
right. :-(
Jim
On Sat, 20 Aug 2005 01:47:37 +0000, Kelly Troyer wrote:
Jim,
My Mazda factory manual says the oil seals should be .220 to .228
in height, the width limit of the oil seal lip (shiney part) is
.020 and the protrusion limit (installed in the grooves) should be
.020 minimum..........Get a manual if you do not have one
already.........It will have all the engine tech data and will help
you make heads or tails of what I just stated.........These little
metal seals keep oil out of the engine and are very
critical..........FWIW -- Kelly Troyer Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2
-------------- Original message from James Brewer
<alpha@concordnc.com>: --------------
Yes, I replace the oil seal o-rings. Yeah, it was smoking when I
got it. Very low
compression on one rotor. Replaced parts with Tracy's overhaul
kit. Bearings in rotors were not
replace but looked ok and measured fine. New apex seals and side
seals. I didn't replace the metal oil rings on the rotors as they
looked fine. How critical are these anyway and what are the
symptoms of failure/damage?
Jim
On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 20:49:27 +0000, Kelly Troyer wrote:
Jim,
You did replace the rotor oil seal O-rings I presume ?? Was it
smoking like that before overhaul ?? -- Kelly Troyer Dyke
Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2
-------------- Original message from James Brewer
: --------------
Guys,
I need some help on my recent 13B rebuild for my '87 RX7.
Thanks to all previous replies on the crank angle sensor/TDC
settings I was able to get it to crank and run. Now for the
diagnosis of my present problem: Engine starts and idles with
a slight
amount of smoking. As the engine warms up and I increase the
RPM I get a considerable amount of smoke. The smoke does
not smell "sweet" like it is burning coolant but maybe it
smells different in a rotary. Smoke is white not black. With
limited running
I haven't noticed a drop in the coolant or coolant in the
oil. Before I pull the engine and go thru it again I would
like to pinpoint the
t;> problem before teardown. I thought I was careful about the
o-
rings. I used Hylomar for the grooves as per Bruce
Turrentine's tape to keep them in the grooves. Am I getting
oil past the oil o-
rings? Other sources or causes for my smoke? Tests I need to
run? Help! Ed, Lynn, Leon or others.
Jim Brewer
Albemarle, NC
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