Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #24626
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant Leak
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 09:37:51 -0400
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Hi Mark,
 
Didn't meant to create any alarm about my "O" ring comments.  If you are using the TES "O" rings then I think you can rest comfortable with any reasonable engine temp.  My TES "O" rings were compromised by the extreme localized heating of the rotor/apex piece rubbing against the side housing (not the due to any defect of the "O" ring) - you could see that the O ring was shrunken adjacent to the hot spot but "proud" to the housing the rest of the way around.
 
Your temp profile seems normal to me.   I was joking about adding the cup of air, I simply find that after 2-3 flights the system simple does not appear to have any air in it.  My theory is that the air gets heated and expelled through the radiator cap into my overflow tank, whereupon it is replaced by coolant flowing back into the system.  After a few flights, I started to get the "immediate" increase in coolant pressure upon startup - but, once the engine is warmed it settles back down to under 10 psi.
 
I've flow it this way for over 250 hours with no ill effects that I can detect.
 
Ed
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 9:18 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant Leak

Hi Ed,

I haven’t paid real close attention to my coolant pressures up to now.  Not seeing anything “unusual”, I typically focus on other stuff.  Best I recall, my coolant pressure starts at 0 and gradually increases.  I have not noticed any quick rise immediately following startup.  But then, the coolant pressure sensor is locate at the thermostat housing (no thermostat).  So, I’m measuring coolant pressures between the block and radiator.  The highest pressure I recall seeing so far is about 24psi after running for 20-30 minutes and temps are in the 212 degree range.  I have to admit that I’ve been ignorant and uninformed as to the need for a cup-o-air in my system and have to this date “filled it to the brim”.  I guess I need to add a cup-o-air the first chance I get. 

 

I don’t follow you on the potential damage to the o-rings.  The TES o-rings are supposed to be good to 500 degrees (I let you test that theory).  They’re supposed to be good for 100 degrees over the stock o-rings, so I should have a considerably higher margin of safety here.  I would be more concerned with blowing a radiator hose, but I’m using aluminum tubing with Wiggins type couplings, so I don’t think I’ll be blowing them apart anytime soon.  I guess the weakest link in my system is the heater hoses.  While they’re top of the line Gates hose, I plan on changing to silicone heater hose before first flight.         

 

Mark

(Happy to hear you got home safely)


From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 9:29 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant Leak

 

Mark,

 

The phenomena which started this thread was the immediate rise in pressure during initial start up in some installations (mine for instance) when all air has been removed from the coolant system.  Once my engine warms up the pressure runs around 8 psi and may climb as high as 10psi if temps are higher than 200F.   It is true that higher pressure delays the temperature that water boils at - but, higher pressure may also work against your waterpump seal and cause leaks (just a thought).  I personally prefer to run at lower coolant pressures since my radiator cap has a max of 21-24 psi.  I suspect that while a higher PSI may indeed delay the onset of the coolant boiling - if your engine is that hot - you will probably have cooked something (like "O" rings {:>)).

 

Ed

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 10:07 AM

Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant Leak

 

 

Ed,

Not to stir the swirl pot, but I thought that it was decided some time back that higher pressures were better than lower pressures.  The higher pressures are supposed provide more margin of safety before a boil-over occurs, permitting a thinner ethylene-glycol solution and enabling the engine to tolerate higher temps before experiencing catastrophic boiling.  So, I’m wondering where this leaves us.  Is it better to run at low (7-8 psi) pressures, or high (28-30psi) pressures? 

 

Mark S.

 


I agree, Al, inquiring minds at least like a plausible hypothesis and I think the discussion has led to that.  Perhaps I'll leave the "cup" of air, just for peace of mind {:>)

Ed

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