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On Thu, 26 May 2005 09:20:32 -0700
"Al Gietzen" <ALVentures@cox.net> wrote:
One thing to consider is that with a canard pusher you can't get a prewired
harness installed easily because the plugs won't go down the electrical
conduit. A harness could be installed during the fuselage construction, but
once the fuselage is built you either have to run the harness another way,
add a connector, or snip and resolder all the wires.
One easy solution is to use the gold plated, machined crimp-on d-sub pins.
Put all the pins on, but pull the wire bundle to where it goes before
snapping the pins into the connector.
After doing all my avionics and EFIS plugs with the gold plated crimp-on
D-subs, I got to love them. Quick easy, and with the special D-sub crimp
tool; very secure connections. Snap them into the connector after making and
checking the crimp.
I'm recommending that Tracy go that route. Yeah, it takes a good tool ($44
t Aeroelectric
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?9X358218#RCT-3) I
believe in soldered connections for all critical leads that carry much
current, but the risks involved in soldering those little solder-socket
d-subs that are already in the connector - I don't think so.
It is especially important on the EM2 P-1 connector because the TC wire
does not solder well. Tinned copper works OK, but the TC wires do not form
a eutectic at the joint, and you only get a 'mechanical' connection anyway.
I found I had to use additional acid to get the solder to wet out on these
wires - risk of corrosion in the future. If I were doing that one over, I'd
toss that connector and get a new one with the plated crimp-on pins.
Any seconds to that motion (Tracy needs a little more pressure; don't ya
think :)
Al
Hi Al,
I looked at the crimp connectors when I started thinking about how to
do this. The only problem with them is expense. The pins are about
26 cents each. Total cost for each connector is 3 or 4 times what a
gold plated solder cup connector goes for. I have the tool and can make
them if needed. Not too bad for each, but when looking to buy 20 or 30
connectors at a time, it's noticable.
If you want to connect the thermocouple wire to a solder cup, I think
it would be better to make a mechanical transition first so that you
have a copper wire to solder. What you're really doing in either case
is making a second reference thermocouple joint at the point of
transition. It won't be a very good thermocouple either. Fortunately
the measured temperatures are high enough that the poor reference
doesn't make a lot of difference.
Bob W.
--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (real soon)
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