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David,
We are thinking along the same lines and I think
Lynn suggested something similar, my only concern is that a hard/harder insert
MIGHT have an adverse on the actual apex seal.
Then again Tracy's seals might withstand
this.
It's a hard one to figure-out without trails on
materials etc.
My feelings are that it takes a long tine for the
grooves to 'V' anyway, this plus the cost involved, might not make
it worth while.
A good thought just the same!
George ( down under)
Hi
to all, has anyone ever considered ball-milling out the apex seal grooves and
pressing in a round tough steel insert and then milling the seal slot in the
steel insert. This would then be' horse shoe' cross section, so to speak. The
corner button seals could also fit into the ends. Maybe a new rotor would be
cheaper, but this may have better reliability and longer life. FWIW, Dave
Mc
On 24/04/2005, at 5:24 AM, Ed Anderson wrote:
I don't how I missed it
before, but I was reading over the helpful instruction set that Tracy sends
out with the Overhaul Kit. There is only ONE thing that they suggest
checking on your rotary engine.
Quote:
" Check the apex seal groove carefully. The stock seals tend to wear a
"V" shape at the opening (mouth) of the groove (rotor). If the grooves
have been "V'ed" more than 0.010" clearance, (a groove opening width of more
than 0.125") your rotor MUST
be replaced or machined to accept 3mm apex seals. The overall seal to
rotor clearance should be 0.002 to
0.006".
I added the red and bold to the "must" in the statement (Ed)
So
I think its quite clear that Bruce T (whom I assume provided the input on
the instructions) feels that "V" apex grooves could lead to BAD
things. Now my V was outside Mazda spec but within the limits of above
- however, if all the factors stack up against you at the same time, perhaps
bad things could happen before you reach the above limit.
FWIW
Ed
Ed
Anderson
Rv-6A
N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews,
NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
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