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Hi Paul,
Look mate, I really feel for you over
there, and what's happening. I wasn't having a "go" at you, or
trying to belittle you. Far from it. It was Tom's uninformed comment
that really got up my nose, hence the abrasive reply. I'm not
normally quite as manic!
Indeed, I just wish I could personally assist
you, but we are 12,000 miles apart. Personally, I don't think
your fan stoppage has anything to do with the ECU itself. It will be most
probably be something silly and trivial. I think in one of my previous
email exchanges with you, I made the point that diagnosis of faults has to
be done in a systematic fashion, but as I'm so far away, I can only
give you broad guidelines.
As it happens, I was talking to a mate of
mine who writes C of As for Experimental Aircraft here in Oz about your
predicament this afternoon . When I told him it was a composite
aircraft, his comment was that statistically, fuel filters have
been known to clog between 4 and ten hours on such aircraft with
monotonous regularity. His advice is to change the fuel filters every 2
hours until they don't have any more debris in them.
Apparently, (and I'm no expert in this but he
is), all the left over stuff in the composite fuel tanks (the
dust, glass fibre, and the coating material etc) will be flushed
out and it does a real good job of clogging the fuel filters(s). Doesn't
matter how scrupulous you are with cleanliness, you just can't get rid of
ALL the junk. So two, three or sometimes four fuel filter changes
are "de rigueur" until they are clear of such debris. So first thing would
be to check the filters. The other obvious thing is to check for water in
your tanks. The third obvious thing would be a dud fuse, or a
loose wire somewhere. Those are the three things I'd be looking at
first. Then go looking for the more esoteric things like blocked tank
vents, crimped fuel lines, etc.
Back to engine tuning. Unless we
here in Oz are wired up totally differently to engine tuners in the
USA, I'm pretty sure you could go to any professional dyno
tuner, give him the MicroTech manual, pay him a some bux to sit down
on his butt and study it, and he would know exactly how to tune
the thing the very next day. See, if a dipstick like me can learn to
do it, (and I'm sure there are people in your corner of the woods that are
a LOT smarter than me), a good Yankee dyno man will pick up on
it in a flash.
So you first need to find a friendly dyno tuner in
your area who can tune preferably either Motec, or Autronic
EFI, but almost any after-market EFI system will do. Anyone who can
tune either of these two units will find the Microtech primitive by
comparison, and very simple to tune. But tuning DOES require a basic
understanding of engine tuning procedures, and how engines ACTUALLY
work. I'd say that ANY good auto electrician/EFI person would get his head
around the manual in two or three hours. The prime requisite is that you
know how EFI systems work, understand Air/Fuel ratios, and can use a
gas analyser and/or Lambda meter.
To get the engine tuned on an engine
dyno, you would need to take the whole engine, complete with
manifolds, water pump etc. Most engine dyno shops have their
own fuel supply system for EFI, and their own cooling systems for oil
& water. You would also need to take your ECU, the hand
set, and the wiring loom. You would need to talk to the particular
shop concerned to see exactly what else they needed. By using an
engine dyno, you will find out exactly how much torque, and
how many BHP you have at each RPM point (normally every 500 RPM is
sufficient), just as Al did.
However, we also have blokes over here who
are mobile tuners. They will come to you. There must be similar
services in the USA. To set the thing up pretty close, all that is
needed is an accurate Air/Fuel ratio meter and a 4 wire Lambda sensor. As
I said, I can do a Microtech pretty close to right in an
hour, starting from scratch.
As an aside, an Ellison might be just as much
trouble. I heartily concur with Bill Jepson who made the point that
Ellisons are designed for big bore, lazy piston engines. The vacuum
signal, and the air flow characteristics of a Lyc are very different to a
Wankel. As I have no idea how an Ellison meters it's fuel, I could be
wrong, but I could see you needing to put in some considerable time tuning
the thing anyway.
As a ROUGH comparison, to run a 13B on
an IDA or DCOE Weber, it needs a minimum of 2 by 38 mm
(1.5") chokes to provide around 180 BHP @ 6,500 RPM. This would
equate to around a single 54-55 mm choke as a bare minimum.
Anyway, if I can be of any more
assistance, feel free to email me at any time. But please,
take care with your flying. I was scared witless just reading about your
last escapade!! You are obviously a really cool customer, and an
exceptional pilot.
Cheers mate,
Leon
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 6:39
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Microtech EFI
and Tuning, was Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Bad day at the airport
Hi, Leon....thanks for responding. I am not
quite sure I understand what you meant about the risks I have taken so
far. I have done many full power runups on the ground with the nose of
the aircraft up against my van (with a large 8inch deep block of foam
inbetween), and adjusted the mixtures until I got the highest rpm's I could,
then continued leaning until the egt peaked, then started to surge, then
richened it back up until it ran smoothly and the egt's stabilized. I
got up to 5100 rpms static, and most people told me that the prop would most
likely unload in flight. How can I obtain more than 5100 rpm's unless I
fly it? I have 9.5 hours of smooth, uneventful flight, without the
engine ever missing a beat. I always climbed to at least 2500 feet
directly above the airport prior to making any mixture changes. My primary
concern with my engine is the lack of power, which you said was because I have
a turbo engine without a turbo, which would only give me around 140
horsepower. After reading your recommendations, I am presently building a
street ported 4-port with NA rotors and housings.
I guess I don't
understand your statement "Considering the risks Paul has taken so far....he
should take the engine out of the aircraft, take it to a professional engine
tuner and stick it on a dyno, and get it properly tuned". If I take it
off the aircraft, do I also take along both fuel pumps, filters, hoses, surge
tank, MicroTech ECU, handset, exhaust system, wiring harness, etc?
As far as bucks,
that is no problem. I would gladly spend the money for safety. I
talked to Dave Atkins several times regarding this. He was somewhat helpful,
but I kinda got the feeling I was taking him away from his work.
He is over 2000 miles away, so coming to Alabama to tune if for me is not
an option. I checked with the local Mazda rebuilder, and he
has rebuilt many rotaries, but has never used a MicroTech
ECU. I had no luck locating anyone familiar with the MicroTech in
the yellow pages of the phone book. That's
one of the reasons I am considering a carburetor....all of the A&P
mechanics at the airport are familiar with the aircraft carburetor....none of
them are familiar with the MicroTech. I would be more than happy to pay for
the help....I just can't find it. As far as MicroTech, I even contacted
MicroTech USA and asked them if they had the original factory default settings
so that I could reset my unit to factory default settings, and they told me to
contact the dealer I purchased it from. I asked Dave Atkins, (I purchased it
from Dave) and he does not have that information. I called MicroTech back, and
they informed me that was because Atkins Rotary is not an authorized MicroTech
dealer. Guess I am out of luck. Thanks for all the support,
MicroTech.
I wish to point
out that I am in no way condemming the MicroTech ECU. It was easy to install
with it's pre-wired harness and excellent instruction manual and schematics.
It has more features than I will ever use, to include data mapping. You can
even limit rpm's, boost, turn on auxillary cooling fans, change the timing,
mixture, amount of milliseconds the injectors are open, adjust how much extra
fuel is injected for cold start enrichment, hell, I think it will even cook
your breakfast and do the dishes. Finding someone familiar with the
MicroTech for assistance is another story, however. Paul
Conner
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 9:34
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Microtech EFI and
Tuning, was Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Bad day at the airport
Hey Tom,
Couldn't help reading your
comment:
"Microtech isn't that cheap and sofar not proven that reliable
overall."
That
sort of comment REALLY, REALLY gets up my nose, especially
coming from someone who is inexperienced in these matters. I've been
selling and tuning these things since the early '90s!! I was
also involved in the early development of them for rotaries as far
back as '1992. So let's tackle your assertions:
PRICE
Firstly, price wise, they are $1250 AUD here in
Oz. If anyone is silly enough to pay double that in the US, then
good luck!!! At current exchange rates (76 cents), that's
UNDER a grand USD. Plus $85 AUD for a 3 Kg EMS courier bag,
(gets there in a few days, ask Todd Bartrim), plus whatever
fees, taxes, and import duties you pay at your end.
That price includes the hand set. The LT-8/LTX-8 units,
without the handset, are $1050/1095 AUD (around $800/830
USD). For another $150 AUD ($115 USD), you get the laptop
dongle and software for a full EIS display on a computer screen,
and includes full Data Logging etc.
See:.
So for Under $2,000 USD (plus taxes and import
duties etc), you can have COMPLETE redundancy (buy two units and one
handset), plus a full EIS display, plus Logging!!! Compare
that with whatever else is available on the market!!!! NOTHING even
comes close price wise!!!!
RELIABILTY
Secondly, there have been literally THOUSANDS and
THOUSANDS of units sold here and overseas over a period of 12
years, `and they are VERY, VERY,
VERY reliable. If you can't afford a Motec or an Autronic,
then the ONLY (in my opinion anyway) other reliable option is a
Microtech. But PLEASE don't blame the equipment when it is the
OPERATOR!!! Which brings me to the next point ...
TUNABILITY
Thirdly, as with any fuel injection/engine management system
(doesn't matter WHAT brand), you still need to have the engine tuned
correctly. I have already stressed on several occasions in my
correspondence to Paul Conner that he MUST get the engine tuned
properly. If he can't do it himself, then PAY a professional to
do it. It 'ain't hard if you know what you are doing. It's
almost impossible if you DON'T!! Get the Pro to check out the rest of
the EFI system while he's at it.
You either understand how an engine works, or you don't. If
you don't, then pay a Pro to do it for you. Just like you don't
attempt to fix your own teeth, or set your own broken limbs, or
remove your own appendix!!!.
With the aid of a good Air/Fuel ratio meter, I can set up a
Microtech pretty close in about an hour. That's all it
takes. The instructions are clear and precise. But as engine
tuning is a "black art", it does require a certain amount of
experience, and a great deal of understanding. Tuning engines
while flying is just asking for it!! Which brings me to the next topic
...
RISKY BEHAVIOUR
Considering the risks Paul has taken
so far, (the potential loss his aircraft, not to
mention others), and not to mention his own life
& limb (and possibly those of others), I am of the opinion that he
should take the engine out of the aircraft, take it to a professional
engine tuner and stick it on a dyno, and get it properly
tuned. CHEAP insurance!!!
Al Geitzen did his tuning on a dyno. Al's
smart, even if we don't agree on BMEP and running turbo rotors in NA
aircraft engines!! (}:>) (Yea Al, I luv youse
too!!). See, Al now knows exactly how much grunt he's
got from his 20B, and at what RPM. No guesswork here. So he can
go to a prop manufacturer and get exactly the right prop first
go.
So why is it all so hard to do things
properly??? If bux are really tight, (and I don't think that's a
problem, otherwise we wouldn't be talking about buying a couple of
Ellisons or a Cessna would we??!!) Then at least tie the plane
down and get a professional tuner to come out and tune the sucker at the
airport, and make sure it is reliable on the ground (lots of high
speed taxi testing with the turkeys) before trying to soar with
eagles.
You are just asking for trouble if the engine
isn't tuned properly, and especially if all the bugs
aren't ironed out of the EFI system and fuel supply etc.
Who actually knows what caused the fan to stop in Paul's case? Water
in the fuel, blocked tank vent? Blocked fuel filter?? Pump
failure?? Electrical failure?? Why blame the EFI??
Anyway, that's my handful of very
abrasive industrial diamond paste for today.
Cheers,
Leon
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005
3:13 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Bad day at
the airport
Paul, Ellison is a substitute for a carburetor, some kind of 'new'
technology that's been around for some time and seems to be simple &
successful and has a good reputation. Avgas only, like a
Cessna. While there's no venturi they still
recomend carb heat. I'm sure there's a size that's overkill
for the motor now on your bench. They offer units for hp
greater than most of these rotaries can put out.
Your statement of 'carburetor or Cessna' really rang a bell with me,
kind of a wake-up call. As for expense, for me I wouldn't have to
deal with the cost or issues you're encountering with the fuel-injection
setup. Microtech isn't that cheap and sofar not proven that reliable
overall.
Rusty, why would you need more than
one? Consider Tracy's current intake setup for his
Renesis, essentially remove the injector hardware and replace his throttle
plate with an Ellison.
I've been sketching manifolds this morning and i can see they'd not
be that difficult to make out of either aluminum or
steel.
Warning, I have no first-hand experience with Ellison's. Just
what I've gleaned from magazines and the internet.
My .01cent
Tom
Paul <sqpilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Does an Ellison throttle body have
injectors, or is it a substitute for a carburetor? Paul
Conner
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