Return-Path: Received: from Mail6.mgfairfax.rr.com ([24.93.67.53]) by ns1.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Sun, 15 Oct 2000 08:44:38 -0400 Received: from db2t00b ([24.28.194.166]) by Mail6.mgfairfax.rr.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35); Sun, 15 Oct 2000 08:51:34 -0400 Message-ID: <001f01c036a7$095e7ec0$a6c21c18@cox.rr.com> From: "Richard Helms" To: References: <20001015045413.AAA15232@ns1.olsusa.com> Subject: Re: LNC2 Canopy Trimming Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 08:54:20 -0400 Return-Path: rhelms@cox.rr.com X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> I did not trim anything from my SFB kit canopy frame. I had some thin edges which had become a little ragged and I did straighten those up by cutting back a little but it was probably 1/8th inch at the most. I did trim two to three inches from the Plexiglas at the back edge and a little around the sides as I recall. It looked to me like the frame was perfect and the glass was the oversized part. I have not noticed a problem with the view. If I ran into difficulty with the canopy it was getting the glass and frame to match up as perfectly as possible. I did that by cutting out 1 inch by 1 inch, sometimes longer/larger, strips of AL 1/8th inch think to act as braces to force the glass up against the frame. (You drill holes in the frame at the edge of the plexiglass and cleco the plexiglass in place. Do not drill the plexiglass!!! Essentially these AL strips were cleco holders (#40 holes drilled in them) and were used to encourage the plexiglass and fiberglass to take the right shape. I think mine looks great. Also remember to roughen up the area of the plexiglass which is going to be getting the hysol and smooth out all cut plexiglass edges so you don't develop any stress cracks. If I had it to do over again I would probably angle the inside edge of the glass a little more. You can easily fill with mirco before adding the bid edge, however. One last suggestion. When you get the glass in place with Hysol make sure you have a nice cure edge running all around the outside. You don't want a lot of excess hysol up on any of the tape (I used a good quality electrical tape) to cure there. Get the tape as close to the plexiglass/fiberglass edge as you can...shoot for 1/8th inch. Get as much Hysol off as you can and still have the nice edge. If you need larger pieces of AL to brace that edge so you do not have a gap, make them up to fit the spot. You can pull the electrical tape off when the Hysol is in the slightly wet of green state. Pull it back against itself and away from the glass. You now have exposed glass so keep away from it until it cures and when it does, get a new piece of tape on it before you do anything else. Also, monitor the condition of the good quality electrical tape. If you quality is not so good, you manage to bake it on, or leave it too long, it will dry out and become nasty to remove. Replace before it gets that way. Hollis Helms Vienna, VA LNC2 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>