X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 12:33:19 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from mail-vc0-f178.google.com ([209.85.220.178] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.9e) with ESMTPS id 6941287 for lml@lancaironline.net; Thu, 19 Jun 2014 11:37:37 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.220.178; envelope-from=dragonnorth@gmail.com Received: by mail-vc0-f178.google.com with SMTP id ij19so2378435vcb.37 for ; Thu, 19 Jun 2014 08:37:01 -0700 (PDT) MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Received: by 10.52.164.70 with SMTP id yo6mr792721vdb.67.1403192221461; Thu, 19 Jun 2014 08:37:01 -0700 (PDT) X-Original-Sender: dragonnorth@gmail.com Received: by 10.52.163.45 with HTTP; Thu, 19 Jun 2014 08:37:01 -0700 (PDT) In-Reply-To: References: X-Original-Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 11:37:01 -0400 X-Google-Sender-Auth: A3UCLsFSuiVRIpEfQ3W2vhrvnUg X-Original-Message-ID: Subject: Re: [LML] Re: IV-P Interior Finishing From: Michael Newman X-Original-To: Lancair Mailing List Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=001a11c35004e972b104fc322569 --001a11c35004e972b104fc322569 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 You can easily make a pattern at a station by cutting a rough cardboard piece and then using a marker mounted in a block to draw a line on the pattern. Cut the line and you should have an almost perfect fit. Sometimes it takes doing this twice once to get close enough to mark with a smaller marker. Identify stations that are exactly as far apart as the width of insulation foam. Cut patterns to match each station. Glue the patterns to the foam making a many layered sandwich with the foam extending well beyond the patterns. Use a rasp and then sandpaper to trim the foam to meet the patterns. This should give you a smooth mold. Making one part you can lay up right on it and dig out the mold destructively later. If you want to make more than one part cover the mold with some kind of protection (chipped glass, micro, bondo etc.) and mold release and lay up your part on top of it. Depending on how thick your protection layer will be adjust the diameter of the marker to draw the lines a measured distance from the surface you are matching. On Thu, Jun 19, 2014 at 10:05 AM, Bill Wade wrote: > Some additional thoughts on pour foam: > > A little goes a long way- I usually mix 2-3 tablespoons of each part to > make a batch. There's no harm in using too little as the stuff is very > adhesive and additional pours will bond to cured ones. Poster board is > another good dam material. -Bill Wade > > > -----Original Message----- From: Robert R Pastusek > Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 7:15 PM > To: Lancair Mailing List > Subject: [LML] IV-P Interior Finishing > > Lancair Builders, > > I have a task that's been troubling me for several years now...at least > I'm claiming this as the reason for flying, rather than finishing the > interior of my airplane! > > I am trying to make a "plug" in the shape of the front and back edges of > the door frame/fuselage intersection. My intention is to use this to make a > fiberglass molding that I can cover with headliner material like I plan for > the rest of the fuselage inside top. I have tried to "carve" hard Styrofoam > into a shape that will fit the door frame, but it's a three-dimensional > curve, and I was not able to produce a satisfactory part from solid foam. I > then tried to use some "weather sealant" spray foam, after taping over the > subject area. This was a TOTAL MESS--spray everywhere except where I wanted > it. The foam that actually got near the right location dripped off before > it became rigid. I have tried modeling clay...way too much required, and > too difficult to work with...etc...etc... > > Any ideas most appreciated on a way ahead... > > Thanks in advance. > > Bob > > -- > For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net: > 81/lists/lml/List.html > > > -- > For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net: > 81/lists/lml/List.html > --001a11c35004e972b104fc322569 Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
You can easily make a pattern at a station by cutting a ro= ugh cardboard piece and then using a marker mounted in a block to draw a li= ne on the pattern. Cut the line and you should have an almost perfect fit. = Sometimes it takes doing this twice once to get close enough to mark with a= smaller marker.

Identify stations that are exactly as far apart as the width= of insulation foam. Cut patterns to match each station. Glue the patterns = to the foam making a many layered sandwich with the foam extending well bey= ond the patterns. Use a rasp and then sandpaper to trim the foam to meet th= e patterns. This should give you a smooth mold.

=C2=A0Making one part you can lay up right on it and di= g out the mold destructively later. If you want to make more than one part = cover the mold with some kind of protection (chipped glass, micro, bondo et= c.) and mold release and lay up your part on top of it. Depending on how th= ick your protection layer will be adjust the diameter of the marker to draw= the lines a measured distance from the surface you are matching.


On Thu,= Jun 19, 2014 at 10:05 AM, Bill Wade <super_chipmunk@roadrunne= r.com> wrote:
Some additional thoughts on pour foam:

A little goes a long way- I usually mix 2-3 tablespoons of each part to mak= e a batch. There's no harm in using too little as the stuff is very adh= esive and additional pours will bond to cured ones. Poster board is another= good dam material. =C2=A0-Bill Wade


-----Original Message----- From: Robert R Pastusek
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 7:15 PM
To: Lancair Mailing List
Subject: [LML] IV-P Interior Finishing

Lancair Builders,

I have a task that's been troubling me for several years now...at least= I'm claiming this as the reason for flying, rather than finishing the = interior of my airplane!

I am trying to make a "plug" in the shape of the front and back e= dges of the door frame/fuselage intersection. My intention is to use this t= o make a fiberglass molding that I can cover with headliner material like I= plan for the rest of the fuselage inside top. I have tried to "carve&= quot; hard Styrofoam into a shape that will fit the door frame, but it'= s a three-dimensional curve, and I was not able to produce a satisfactory p= art from solid foam. I then =C2=A0tried to use some "weather sealant&q= uot; spray foam, after taping over the subject area. This was a TOTAL MESS-= -spray everywhere except where I wanted it. The foam that actually got near= the right location dripped off before it became rigid. I have tried modeli= ng clay...way too much required, and too difficult to work with...etc...etc= ...

Any ideas most appreciated on a way ahead...

Thanks in advance.

Bob

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For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/list= s/lml/List.html


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