Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #70237
From: Bill Wade <super_chipmunk@roadrunner.com>
Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [LML] IV-P Interior Finishing
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 10:05:23 -0400
To: <lml@lancaironline.net>
Hi Bob-
           You might try pour foam- A/S sells "X-30" liquid foam. Several layers of aluminum foil can be taped in place for a dam. Then the two parts are mixed and either poured or injected into place. It cures in 5-10 minutes so you have to work fast before the mixture starts to expand.

I use a large capacity syringe with a large tip when filling a cavity, using a funnel made of foil to load it. I've found that spray foam will dissolve if it's glassed over- the stuff I use (10-15 years old, label long since gone) will not so it can be used as a base for permanent foam-core structures. In your case, once the plug is shaped I prefer Glad Wrap as a a release covering because it's thin compared to Saran Wrap. The picture shows the wing root TE that I molded on my IV-P.  -Bill Wade

-----Original Message----- From: Robert R Pastusek
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 7:15 PM
To: Lancair Mailing List
Subject: [LML] IV-P Interior Finishing

Lancair Builders,

I have a task that's been troubling me for several years now...at least I'm claiming this as the reason for flying, rather than finishing the interior of my airplane!

I am trying to make a "plug" in the shape of the front and back edges of the door frame/fuselage intersection. My intention is to use this to make a fiberglass molding that I can cover with headliner material like I plan for the rest of the fuselage inside top. I have tried to "carve" hard Styrofoam into a shape that will fit the door frame, but it's a three-dimensional curve, and I was not able to produce a satisfactory part from solid foam. I then  tried to use some "weather sealant" spray foam, after taping over the subject area. This was a TOTAL MESS--spray everywhere except where I wanted it. The foam that actually got near the right location dripped off before it became rigid. I have tried modeling clay...way too much required, and too difficult to work with...etc...etc...

Any ideas most appreciated on a way ahead...

Thanks in advance.

Bob

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