X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from omr-m09.mx.aol.com ([64.12.143.82] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.9e) with ESMTPS id 6909345 for lml@lancaironline.net; Wed, 28 May 2014 14:53:50 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.143.82; envelope-from=Sky2high@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-mce02.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-mce02.mx.aol.com [172.29.27.208]) by omr-m09.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id E2C4B7024F0B8 for ; Wed, 28 May 2014 14:53:17 -0400 (EDT) Received: from core-mla005c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-mla005.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.186.83]) by mtaomg-mce02.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 95BB338000088 for ; Wed, 28 May 2014 14:53:17 -0400 (EDT) From: Sky2high@aol.com Full-name: Sky2high Message-ID: <5d503.42b769b.40b78a9d@aol.com> Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 14:53:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Hydraulic Cylinder Rigging To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_5d503.42b769b.40b78a9d_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.6 sub 168 X-Originating-IP: [24.14.166.87] x-aol-global-disposition: G DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20121107; t=1401303197; bh=b91YN0Jd/eV/+VfDnU8/PSca4F9ngDMwx1fUYhPjsNc=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=ywPn+A1QyZeLQonbIOgSXoCnak87fPAWtGnCw0GOfe4ETrXUqrIPHCt1CACkv1fYY n7KIuef72ShMPtj5zuC9SOvm3Jy2Ib23QS1Utsaeuj39cS1doG5tHymgda9Zviw0Ul HGoUdirsIvfmWBzMRAbIwU5UuXp6cXXAsiuRPcyA= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d1bd05386309d1e0e --part1_5d503.42b769b.40b78a9d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, If the actuator is too long fro the down stop either relocate the aft end mounting or cut off some of the threaded end (within reason). The uo stop can be positioned with some more nuts on the shaft or cut it down a bit if too long. Again, if 500 to 800 psi is pressure applied to the over center link (main gear), that pressure is translated as a pre-load to the point where the link is mounted on the spar. Additional load from a bad landing can cause delamination of that mounting block (especially true if you are using the hard donuts for suspension, high tire pressure, etc.). Good luck. Scott PS There is a service bulletin that describes a reinforcement phenolic plate added between the top of the mounting block and the upper spar cap. See if you can get it from Lancair. In a message dated 5/28/2014 1:25:28 P.M. Central Daylight Time, snopercod@comporium.net writes: Scott-- Yes, the information I provided was both ancient and from the 235 manual (grin). Thanks for providing better information from the 320 manual; Lance did a much nicer job of explaining things in that manual than in the ancient one. I read your attachment twice, though, and didn't find anything about "down stops" or adjusting the rod end with the gear down first. Maybe I'm just getting senile? The pages you sent do indicate, though, that the up stop can be adjusted with the rod end (true), but that would mess up the down stop that you just adjusted, wouldn't it? As I'm sure you know, adjusting the rod end bearing effects both the up and down stops, while the aluminum "spool piece" effects only the up stop. So you're suggesting that I first adjust the down stop with the rod-end, and then fiddle with the length of the spool piece and/or washers to adjust the up stop? That sounds pretty tricky but I'll try it. Frankly, I don't think I can screw the rod ends in far enough to achieve a proper down stop as you are describing. Thanks-- --John I think you pointed to the wrong section. Also, I think that manual is either for a 235 or is just ancient. To avoid confusion, read the 2 pages attached for a discussion of up-stops. The modern manual is available either at the LML site or someone will indicate how to get it. The essential down stop is the full mechanical extension of the hydro cylinders where the piston stops against the fwd end of the actuator for the reasons I mentioned. Yes, both stops can be achieved. Set the down stop first and then adjust the up-stop via any method that works - added washers, cutting the stop, etc. Scott --part1_5d503.42b769b.40b78a9d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
John,
 
If the actuator is too long fro the down stop either relocate the aft = end=20 mounting or cut off some of the threaded end (within reason).  The uo = stop=20 can be positioned with some more nuts on the shaft or cut it down a bit if = too=20 long.
 
Again, if 500 to 800 psi is pressure applied to the over center l= ink=20 (main gear), that pressure is translated as a pre-load to the point where t= he=20 link is mounted on the spar.  Additional load from a bad landing can c= ause=20 delamination of that mounting block (especially true if you are using the h= ard=20 donuts for suspension, high tire pressure, etc.).
 
Good luck.
 
Scott
 
PS There is a service bulletin that describes a reinforcement phenolic= =20 plate added between the top of the mounting block and the upper spar cap.&n= bsp;=20 See if you can get it from Lancair.
 
 
In a message dated 5/28/2014 1:25:28 P.M. Central Daylight Time,=20 snopercod@comporium.net writes:
= Scott--

Yes, the information I provi= ded was=20 both ancient and from the 235 manual=20 (grin). Thanks for providing better= =20 information from the 320 manual; Lan= ce=20 did a much nicer job of explaining things in that manual than in the anci= ent=20 one. I read your attachment twice, though, and didn't find anything about= =20 "down stops" or adjusting the rod end with the gear down first. Maybe I'm= just=20 getting senile? The pages you sent do indicate, though, that the up stop = can=20 be adjusted with the rod end (true), but that would mess up the down stop= that=20 you just adjusted, wouldn't it?

As I'm sure you know, adjusting th= e rod=20 end bearing effects both the up and down stops, while the aluminum= =20 "spool piece" effects only the up stop. So you're suggesting that I first= =20 adjust the down stop with the rod-end, and then fiddle with the length of= the=20 spool piece and/or washers to adjust the up stop? That sounds pretty tric= ky=20 but I'll try it. Frankly, I don't think I can screw the rod ends in far e= nough=20 to achieve a proper down stop as you are=20 describing.

Thanks--

  --John
I think you pointed to the wrong section.  Also, I = think=20 that manual is either for a 235 or is just ancient.  To avoid=20 confusion,  read the 2 pages attached for a discussion of=20 up-stops.  The modern manual is available either at the LML s= ite=20 or someone will indicate how to get=20 it.
 
The essential down stop is the full mechanical extension= of=20 the hydro cylinders where the piston stops against the fwd end of the= =20 actuator for the reasons I=20 mentioned.
 
Yes, both stops can be achieved.  Set the down stop= =20 first and then adjust the up-stop via any method that works - added was= hers,=20 cutting the stop, etc.
 
Scott
<= BR>
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