Scott--

Yes, the information I provided was both ancient and from the 235 manual (grin). Thanks for providing better information from the 320 manual; Lance did a much nicer job of explaining things in that manual than in the ancient one. I read your attachment twice, though, and didn't find anything about "down stops" or adjusting the rod end with the gear down first. Maybe I'm just getting senile? The pages you sent do indicate, though, that the up stop can be adjusted with the rod end (true), but that would mess up the down stop that you just adjusted, wouldn't it?

As I'm sure you know, adjusting the rod end bearing effects both the up and down stops, while the aluminum "spool piece" effects only the up stop. So you're suggesting that I first adjust the down stop with the rod-end, and then fiddle with the length of the spool piece and/or washers to adjust the up stop? That sounds pretty tricky but I'll try it. Frankly, I don't think I can screw the rod ends in far enough to achieve a proper down stop as you are describing.

Thanks--

  --John

I think you pointed to the wrong section.  Also, I think that manual is either for a 235 or is just ancient.  To avoid confusion,  read the 2 pages attached for a discussion of up-stops.  The modern manual is available either at the LML site or someone will indicate how to get it.

 

The essential down stop is the full mechanical extension of the hydro cylinders where the piston stops against the fwd end of the actuator for the reasons I mentioned.

 

Yes, both stops can be achieved.  Set the down stop first and then adjust the up-stop via any method that works - added washers, cutting the stop, etc.

 

Scott