Message-ID: <395A8A3C.70E5E597@mc.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 18:29:00 -0500
From: jerry@mc.net
To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
Subject: Re: Cutting Table Surface & Workshop Tips
References: <73.492a6e8.268bb6d3@aol.com>
Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
Mime-Version: 1.0

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My thanks to Rob Wolf for starting this thread of tips.  Here's a
contribution.

When I only need a small amount of epoxy, I use a ziplock bag to mix the two
components.  There are several sizes of bags to make it easy to come up with
the best size for the task.  I pump directly into the bag and zip it
closed.  The mixing takes place on a flat surface with no flaws, bumps, pits
or ruts.  A tongue depressor is used to flow the two components into each
other.  Since the bag contents are visible it is easy to guide the two
components back and forth massaging them until there is thorough mixing.  

If a small edge area of honeycomb needs primed with epoxy, I cut a corner
off the bag (about 1/8" opening).  I can now use the bag like a caulking
gun.  I then squeeze the epoxy into the honeycomb, or on to a brush, and
paint it on.  I then mix up the micro or flox in a ziplock bag and when it
is at the right mix and able to be squeezed out, I cut off the corner and
use the bag like a caulking gun once again.  This saves cups, keeps much of
the odor inside the bag while mixing.  Any remainder in the bag is your
proof of cure.

This is really good for when you want to fill corners, especially if the
corners are where you have to work with the caulking gun pointed straight
up.  You then have complete control of the rate of fill and where fill needs
to go.  Enjoy!

Jerry Grimmonpre'
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Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
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