Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #56688
From: <marv@lancair.net>
Subject: Re: Retrofitting a 360
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 16:44:07 -0500
To: <lml>

Posted for "Jim Nordin" <panelmaker@earthlink.net>:

 A alternative method to support the forward hinged canopy without the header
 tank. If you want more pictures I have 'em.
 
 Jim
 
 
 
  _____  
 
From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of
 rwolf99@aol.com
 Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 6:32 AM
 To: lml@lancaironline.net
 Subject: [LML] Retrofitting a 360
 
 
 
 Danny -
 
 
 
 Some thoguhts from a 360 builder (but not yet flying).
 
 
 
 1)  Canopy -- If you are considering retrofitting a forward hinged canopy to
 a finished 360 with a parallelogram canopy, here are some things to
 consider.  The forward hinge canopy attaches to brackets which go into
 "pockets" in the aft face of the header tank.  If the back face of the
 header tank is flat, you will need to "make" pockets by hacking up the
 header tank.  That would be a real pain, in my opinion, but anything can be
 done.  There are instructions for doing this with the forward hinge canopy
 hardware.  My 360 came with parallelogram canopy hardware but a "pocketed"
 header tank, and I subsequently purchased the forward hinge hardware.  So
 you might luck out there and find a parallelogram canopy installation onto a
 pocketed tank.  If the plane does not have a header tank at all you've got a
 bigger problem -- no place to attach the brackets for the hinges.
 Regardless of header tank configuration, you will have to reinforce the
 front of the canopy with 80 feet of unidirectional carbon fiber.  You may
 also choose to trim the canopy sides to make them thinner and gain about an
 inch of shoulder room.  This particular modification work should not be too
 hard, but you'll trash the interior paint on the canopy.  Not a biggie, I
 think.  You'll also need to cut a slot in the back rest for the handle and
 affix nylon pivot blocks to the inside walls just behind the seat.  Plus cut
 slots into the rollover structure for the latches and make a hole in the
 side of the plane for the handle.  Also cut holes in your glareshield for
 the hinges.  All is doable but I'm not sure I would bother.  Guesses?  $1000
 for materials and parts and 250 hours labor.  Plus paint.  Just a guess.
 
 
 
 2)  Long engine mount -- This will probably make maintenance a lot easier.
 Will also move your CG forward and make it fly better.  I think all you'll
 need to do is unbolt the mount, make sure the new mount fits in the old
 holes, and move the engine and its accessories over.  Then you'll need to
 extend the cowling to fill the gap.  As fiberglass work goes that's not too
 bad.  You will have to re-do the cowling fasteners, of course.  And you
 might need longer hoses in a couple of places, but that's just writing a
 check.  Guesses?  $500 for a new mount, $700 for materials including new
 cowl fastener parts and new hoses, a weekend for the changeover and 75 hours
 labor for extending the canopy and redoing the cowl fasteners.  Plus paint.
 
 
 
 3)  Landing gear -- I have long considered the Lancair landing gear to be
 the weak link in the airplane.  Tinkertoy struts supporting go-kart wheels
 and bicycle brakes.  Okay, so maybe that's a little harsh but if you compare
 the Lancair gear to any certified airplane of the same or similar weight and
 you see Twiggy supporting the Lancair and (fil in your favorite female WWE
 start here) supporting the spam can. (wait, where was I?  I lost my train of
 thoguth for a moment)  Oh, yes, and it's not just the gear -- the flaps are
 totally different as well.  This is a huge modification which I would stay
 away from.  But again, I know nothing about the outback gear. Guesses?
 Megabucks for the parts and a year or two for the labor.  (Okay, maybe I
 exaggerate a little.)
 
 
 
 Hope this helps.
 
 
 
 - Rob Wolf
 
 Tucson AZ
 
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