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Clark,
sounds like good
stuff!
I think Eric is right in
general about the battery not being able to melt the wire but I suggest you look
at the battery specs e.g. at odyssey and see how impressive their short term
currents really are. e.g. you can be over 200 amps for 30 secs going
through a starter. If you size it big enough, Eric is
right. If it's not big enough you could definitely melt it
down. If you get a dead short across the wires then it will be
way higher current for way less time. e.g. I think a odyssey pc680 will
exceed 1000 amps for a few secs.
In my airplane, all wires inside
the cabin are attached to an ANL that will melt before the insulation on the
wire does. The only wires that aren't protected that way are from the
battery to the grid and from the grid to the starter.
If I were going to have
batteries in the back I would probably put in one of those big 7" cooper bussman
ultra slow blow fuses. Then I would be able to let the smoke out
after 90 seconds or so.
Colyn
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, November 06, 2009 12:35
AM
Subject: [LML] L-IVP Battery
Cooling
>>>Also, a remote location causes more voltage drop due to the
longer cable. I have one battery in the back and tried copper wire (very
heavy) and had almost no voltage drop, but when I checked aluminum wires (very
light), I had nearly 1.0v drop from the terminals to the Buss. Aluminum
is OK for avionics Buss, but not cranking or hydralic pump amp (too much heat
and volt loss), if drawing off a battery behind the rear bulkhead. My
humble opinion.
<<My
plan therefore is to make sure something else opens or fuses before the wire
melts down.<<
I was curious about the statements above since I am using CCA (copper
clad aluminum) battery wiring in my Legacy. Below are comments from Eric
Jones at Perihelion Designs.
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