Well said Brent.
I have had my eye on these fasteners for 20 years, and have mentioned
several times on this forum through the years that when I build my next Lancair
(Legacy), I will be using them.
Gary Edwards
LNC2
Most kids like to take things apart. The ones
that learned to reliably
reverse the process usually go on to become
engineers.
I first learned about these fasteners over 30 years ago when
I was
designing and building IMSA race cars. I was visiting another car
builder, Dave Kent, in Los Angeles and he took me to an aerospace
fastener surplus store where you could buy "sweepings" from the various
aerospace facilities. You could get every kind of cool high performance
fastener and pay by the pound! If I knew then what I know now I would
have mortgaged the farm and bought the entire store. A couple of years
later there was a scandal where where people were buying up these
surplus parts, repackaging them and selling them back to the market as
new. The FAA cracked down and my "Fastener Heaven" store vaporized and
is now a tattoo parlor. BTW, it was Dave that introduced me to WLS
coatings. Dave also had a penchant for topless bars and double Dewer's
up, but that is way off topic.
Tridair fasteners are positive
retention fasteners, originally designed
for supersonic aircraft. Dzus and
Camlock fasteners are "fixed force"
spring type. When you use a spring
fastener you produce a fixed clamping
force at the fastening interface.
This is bad news in high vibration
environments as the vibration can
momentarily separate the two clamped
parts, allowing them to move
laterally and cause fretting and wear. If
you examine most spring fastener
installations that have been in service
for a while you will see indicia
of wear proximal to the fastener.
The Tridair fasteners are different
because there is no mushy spring in
the clamping system. Also the OD of
the female "screw" is a close
tolerance fit to the ID of the receiver.
This provides positive
clamping without the wiggle.
HOW THEY
WORK
There is a reason these things are expensive.
Refer to the
pictures below. All the magic is in the receptacle. The
housing is capped
by a stud that has a multi start male thread. Inside
the housing is a
coaxial barrel that contains a spring that prelaods an
axial sliding
plate. On the bottom of the barrel and the top of the stud
heads are
radial teeth that engage each other.
During assembly, slots on the end
of the screw engage tabs on the
sliding plate. Other tabs on the
perimeter of the sliding plate engage
slots in the barrel so that as the
screw turns the sliding plate the
plate turns the barrel, causing the
teeth to on the barrel to rotate
against the teeth on the stud. This
produces a clicking noise during
assembly and removal. It also prevents
the fastener from loosening in
service.
Installation and use
tips:
Try to only use one grip length. I used -2s. This eliminates the
possibility of using a wrong length. You can grind down or bid up the
receiver mounting area to make the grip distance within the fastener's
range.
The retainer clip is not a requirement. Having the
screws come off of
the cowling eliminated the possibility of
having them scratch the
paint during reassemble.
Use a reamer
(0.251") to size the holes with the cowling mated to the
fuselage. Repeat
after painting and then install the receivers.
Periodically wash out
the screws and receivers and relubricate with
something better than WD40
(e.g. LPS #2 spray lubricant).
Remember, paying for quality is a tough
decision to make but an easy
decision to live
with.
Regards
Brent Regan