Return-Path: Received: from smtp1.gateway.net ([208.230.117.245]) by ns1.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Mon, 27 Mar 2000 01:35:00 -0500 Received: from oemcomputer (1Cust161.tnt2.coeur-dalene.id.da.uu.net [63.20.49.161]) by smtp1.gateway.net (8.9.3/8.9.3) with SMTP id BAA26869 for ; Mon, 27 Mar 2000 01:31:58 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <000e01bf97b7$28918ce0$a131143f@oemcomputer> Reply-To: "dfs" From: "dfs" To: "Lancair List" Subject: 360 flap & aileron screws Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:39:08 -0800 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Angier: I switched to SS screws on the flap, aileron, gear door and elevator hinges as well as the cowl mounting as soon as I got N235SP flying. I've never had one fail in service though occasionally one will cam-out (the phillips cross slot rounds out) upon removal. I changed for two reasons: the regular steel ones froze up a lot and cammed out too, second, I just think the SS screws look better. As far as strength is concerned, you'll probably tear out the fiberglass before the SS screws will fail. With the SS as well as the regular screws, if one does cam-out, you'll need a small Easy-out and the correct size drill (they should come as a set) to remove the damaged screw. I've had to do it a number of times on both types of steel - no big deal. Just go easy with the drill and go only as deep as needed to allow the Easy-out to grab completely, try not to get into the nut plate. If you do, you'll need to replace it too. Dan Schaefer >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>