Message-ID: <001901bf46c8$3cc35120$e731143f@oemcomputer>
Reply-To: "dfs" <dfs@gateway.net>
From: "dfs" <dfs@gateway.net>
To: "Lancair List" <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
Subject: attach points
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:46:49 -0800
Mime-Version: 1.0

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For what it's worth:

If you're going to use attach points that are through -holes, like gear door
attach points, for instance, pot in a short length of hollow fiberglass
arrow shaft (available from most good sporting good stores) with a glob of
flox pushed back between the outer skins about 1/8th to 1/4 inch all around.
When it's cured, sand any protrusion of the shaft flush with the skin on
both sides. Makes a very sturdy thru-hole - and if memory serves me - will
take up to about a # 10 screw. I used this method a lot and all are
functioning perfectly after 500+ hours.

One neat thing about using this method is that, depending on what you forsee
as the load on a particular attach point, you can make the flox surround a
bit larger diameter obviating the need for a Tinnerman washer on the
outside. Keeps it neat.

I used this method in several areas (blind attach points) to then pot in a
counter-sunk screw, making a reasonably crush-proof attach point. I ground
some of the screw head side off to insure that it would resist turning if
the epoxy didn't bond to it perfectly.

Dan Schaefer

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