Return-Path: Received: from slkcpop1.slkc.uswest.net ([206.81.128.1]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with SMTP id com for ; Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:06:01 -0500 Received: (qmail 27760 invoked by alias); 15 Dec 1999 03:02:51 -0000 Received: (qmail 26092 invoked by uid 0); 15 Dec 1999 03:01:40 -0000 Received: from pppdsla7.slkc.uswest.net (HELO scottdah) (216.160.232.7) by slkcpop1.slkc.uswest.net with SMTP; 15 Dec 1999 03:01:40 -0000 Delivered-To: fixup-lancair.list@olsusa.com@fixme From: "Scott & Paula Dahlgren" To: "___Lancair list" Subject: attach points Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 20:03:54 -0700 Message-ID: <000101bf46a9$05ab6840$0200000a@scottdah> Importance: Normal X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Has anyone developed some clever ways to make attach points or mounts for small items? seems like there must be an easier and faster way than bonding a machine screw through a block of wood and covering it with fiberglass. Scott [You can always use Click-Bond fasteners, but at $3.00 per stud, they do get a little pricey. When I wanted to install studs to hold the adel clamps for my hydraulic lines, I used a 3/4" hole saw to remove a circle of the 2-BID pre-preg inner skin, then potted machine screws directly into the cored-out area of the hole... covered the hole with a 2-BID patch with the screw sticking out of the center and found it to work quite well. When I cored out the area to accept the screw I undercut the nomex so the flox would extend about 3/16-1/4" beyond the hole's circumference. Works for me. ] >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>