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I've just affixed my header tank to the forward deck.  To complete the header tank assembly, I need only to smooth out the flox around the header tank flange, attach the exterior 3-BID which structurally attaches it to the forward deck, and run leak checks.

Then fix the leaks...

My plan is to apply the 3-BID before checking for leaks, hoping that any leaks thru the flox bond between the tank flange and the deck will be fixed thusly.  Then I plan to seal up all the intentional holes in the tank (fuel inlets and outlets, quantity gauge, etc) and pressurize to 1 psi with a bicycle pump, using a water manometer as a pressure gauge.  (Let's see, 33 feet equals 14.7 psi, thus 1 psi is 27 inches of water...)  Gross leak checks will be done with soapy water.  Tiny leaks will be revealed by tracking manometer readings vs time for several days.  (Of course, corrections for temperature and ambient pressure will be included.)  Then I tear my hair out trying to find the leaks.

Then I send another posting here asking how to fix the leaks...

Any comments?

BTW, the line in the manual stating "If the tank does not fit tightly against the forward deck, simply fill the voids with epoxy/flox" will be the subject of a future posting.  This was NOT a trivial undertaking.

- Rob Wolf


[As mentioned previously, I completely rebuilt my header tank and was
meticulous in the surface prep and bonding of the tank to the forward
deck... when completed I found I had no leaks and hope that you are as
fortunate as I was in this regard.  If you're very careful with all your
preparations and bonds I suspect you'll find your installation to be
leak-free as well.  Be sure to let us know how it turns out. <Marv>          ]

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