Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #39958
From: Marvin Kaye <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: Flap actuator issues
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 09:55:27 -0500
To: <lml>
Posted for "Jim Scales" <joscales98@hotmail.com>:

 My ES has a little over 800 hours on it.  In that time I have had three
instances of being unable to retract the flaps from full extension.  In each
instance I was able to unhook the motor from the flaps and get it to run.  In
each instance I found that the motor had pulled the actuator rod past the full
extension limit switch until it jammed inside the rod's housing and popped the
circuit breaker.
 
 When I pulled the pin out of the rod end the rod was very tight inside the
housing.  When I slightly rotated the rod it got free and the motor would run
and move the actuator rod.
 
 Each time that I have experienced this problem I have replaced the limit
switch with a new one.  I even carry spares along with the tools it takes to
get to the assembly in case I have the problem away from home (which has been
the case two of the three times it has happened).
 
 I would appreciate some input from those who may have experienced this
situation.  My flap motor assembly is as shipped from Lancair in 1995.
 
 Do I need to update the assembly?  Do I need to go to a different limit
switch design?  Could there be dirt or something keeping the switch from
operating properly?  I must confess that I am not entirely clear how the darn
things (limit switches) actually work, but that's another story.
 
 I am at a loss.  I know that, even though I know what the problem is when it
happens, and how to fix it, it is embarrassing when I have passengers who have
to watch me tear the back seat out to get to the assembly.
 
 Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
 Jim Scales
 Angels Playmate
 Super ES

[Jim, it sounds like your flap actuator motor is coasting past the retract limit, allowing the operating rod to jam up in the housing .  The circuitry that powers the flaps should include a method of shorting the motor leads together when the power to the actuator is removed.  While the motor is spinning down unpowered it is acting as a generator and shorting its leads together places a huge load on it thereby acting as an electrical 'brake'.  I thought that the wiring instructions in the build manual included that feature... I know it does on the flap motor for the LNC2.  Of course, the problem could be purely mechanical, although this is the first thing I'd be looking at to get to the root of the problem.  Just a thought.   <Marv>   ]
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