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Alan,
I saw a beautiful ES parked at Salt Lake one day. Upon
further inspection I noticed it had 1 foot cracks all
over the thing. At first I thought it was the airplane
cracking but soon realized it was the paint!!!
Something went terribly wrong to an otherwise gorgeous
airplane.
Whatever you do, follow someones success and let the
painter use the paint he knows.
FWIW, I used super fil light weight filler for
anything thicker than say 1/16" or so.
Ever clear proucts are fine for finish filling and pin
holes and dings. Even a patch here and there could be
used as long as it is not in an area that will get any
abuse as it could crack if you hit it hard enough.
I stuck with the recomended finish that Lancair uses
with the exception of the paint and got excellent
results.
Super fil light weight filler, WLS primer squeegied
first coat, brushed 2nd coat. Sprayed 3rd and 4th
Finish up with everclear spot putty for quick
turnaround as you will keep finding imperfections. Even as the airplane went into the booth for final
paint I had a tube of filler and a razor blade for pin
holes in hand. then a couple of light coats of
automotive primer that the shop used had topped with
Sickens 2 stage paint...
I ended up with excellent results. See attached pic
There are endless possibilities. You will get as many
different answers as people you ask. Copy a success
story. I chose to go as light as possible using the
stuff that has been proven to work.
Hope that helps!
Good luck..
Randy L. Snarr
235/320
99%
--- "Alan K. Adamson" <aadamson@highrf.com> wrote:
Ok, so I've checked the archives, I've researched
online, now I'm looking
for imperial information.
As it relates to body work. I've seen numerous
posts on various composite
finishing sites about using some of the newer
polyester based fillers. A
couple of examples. Evercoat makes a line of "RAGE"
fillers that are
polyester based. The one most discussed is Rage or
Rage Xtreme. The later
claims to be less at creating pinholes.
In the past, most have suggested that for *light*
leveling, and filling when
doing body work, that you should *never* use one of
these fillers. However,
I am curious. It seems that the composite body
shops for cars use them,
also they are heavily used in metal body repair. So, why are they so bad
and has the technology changed enough that these
would be ok to use and they
won't have the shrink, crack, etc issues of the
older generation? I'm not
talking about "contouring issues", I'm mostly
talking about thin leveling
issues that you're trying to correct.
The discussion on primers was a good one, so I
figure, I'll try it around
fillers?
Thanks in advance,
Alan
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