Return-Path: Received: from www.sequoianet.com ([206.242.77.5]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Mon, 26 Jul 1999 13:49:57 -0400 Received: from cardell.com ([207.87.248.2]) by www.sequoianet.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) ID# 0-51638U1000L1000S0) with SMTP id AAA164 for ; Mon, 26 Jul 1999 13:51:50 -0400 Received: from ccMail by cardell.com (ccMail Link to SMTP R8.31.00.5) id AA933011613; Mon, 26 Jul 1999 13:53:43 -0400 Message-Id: <9907269330.AA933011613@cardell.com> Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 13:53:13 -0400 From: To: Subject: Re: Lead Weights X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Well, my water cooled form for casting lead weights wasn't too smart, it seems. However, just as science progressed during times when the method was questionable, I too, have a simple fix to turn a dangerous process into a simple and reliable one. My experience suggests that water was not needed for cooling the epoxy layup form into which I poured the lead. Next time I would simply bury the bid layup in a bed of sand for stability and proceed to pour the molten lead. This saves the time of making a wood form that Jim McKibbin describes. The form was created in the first place by laying up two layers of bid around a foam core made to the desired shape and size of the lead piece. If I knew my way around sand casting I could go directly from the foam core to pouring the lead into the sand. But I don't, so the bid form comes into play. Marv, you mentioned sand casting; is it a simple process to mix sand and other ingredients to get the necessary characteristics for pouring lead into the sand impression? The sand cores I've seen (engine head water galleries) seem to have glueing agents to keep the sand together. If the ingredients are readily available, it would be a terrific new skill. Regards, Ed (avoid steam explosion) de Chazal [I understand the simplest way to do this is to mix flour and water into the sand (doesn't take much to create the 'binder'), take the impression, then bake to remove the moisture. This will require having a proper 'plug' from which to take the impression, of course, but doing those out of plaster is a no-brainer and very quick. If you'd like to get more information on sand casting, I'd highly recommend that you contact Lindsay Publications, PO Box 538, Bradley, IL, 60915-0538, (815-935-5353, fax 815-935-5477) and ask them for whatever books they have on the subject. Get on their mailing list as well, as they put out all sorts of interesting metalworking books and booklets on just about every related subject you can imagine. I see a 175 page softcover book in one of his older catalogs called "Green Sand Casting" (publication #4082) listed at $9.95, but in his catalogs he suggests that you don't order from old ones... I've no idea why. I see that they also offer a video for about 30 bux, might be worth the investment if you want to get serious about this activity. I hope this helps. ] >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML homepage: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html