Return-Path: Received: from smtp1.erols.com ([207.172.3.234]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Tue, 9 Feb 1999 08:40:05 -0500 Received: from harrelson (207-172-110-15.s15.as1.frd.erols.com [207.172.110.15]) by smtp1.erols.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with SMTP id IAA21909 for ; Tue, 9 Feb 1999 08:40:48 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <36C03A60.726C@erols.com> Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 08:38:40 -0500 From: BILL and SUE Reply-To: harrelson@erols.com To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: Re: Dry cycling hydraulic cylinders References: <19990205055349.AAA12590@truman.olsusa.com> X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Ed Sikora asked: " contempleated putting a tubing loop from inlet to outlet " Ed, The lubing is probably a good idea but a tube from inlet to outlet won't work because the volume of fluid is greater on the side of the cylinder without the shaft because of the space taken up by the shaft inside the cylinder. You will need some kind of system to absorb the extra fluid. You should be able to come up with some kind of an open system to do this. A simple tube from inlet to outlet will set up a hydraulic lock that will prevent the cylinder from moving (or more likely, will burst the tubing if you're using poly). Like you, I didn't hook up my hydraulics for several years after kit delivery but when I did, there was no problem with leakage, everything worked fine. Use Dell seals on all of the flared fittings.