Hi Don

I don't know about that specific system for putty compatability but I would NOT use acylic laquer glazing putty.  One technique I use that works pretty well is use the unthinned primer with a squeegee and use it like a thin putty.  No problems with compatibility and it does a great job on pin holes.  And of course you can spot prime using a binks paint sprayer (or just as good, an Astro gun which is a cheap knock off).

As to the shrinkage of glas vs carbon, yes, they work the same since it's the resin shrinking, not the fabric that causes the print through.  One thing that will help is to cook the primed parts for a bit.  This helps force cure the paint.  It is the shrinkage caused during curing that causes print through.  Epoxies are better than styrene based systems since most epoxies shrink about 3% in volume compared to styrene based systems which are up to 3 times that, (based on volume).

One hint, for perfect fairness, use as long a board as you can.  I have made a LOT of long sanding boards and also have some 30" x 4" velcro backed 3M longboards.  These are available at most auto paint stores.