Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 18:33:01 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from pop3.olsusa.com ([63.150.212.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0b7) with ESMTP id 1724009 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 08 Sep 2002 17:28:19 -0400 Received: from dc-mx14.cluster1.charter.net ([209.225.8.24]) by pop3.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-71866U8000L800S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Sun, 8 Sep 2002 17:20:22 -0400 Received: from [24.207.220.89] (HELO computer) by dc-mx14.cluster1.charter.net (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.5.9) with SMTP id 96595963 for lancair.list@olsusa.com; Sun, 08 Sep 2002 17:30:38 -0400 X-Original-Message-ID: <000801c2577e$ff1a3a80$59dccf18@home.charterstl.com> From: "Bob Jude" X-Original-To: "Mail List Lancair" Subject: Wiring with AWG -26 Wire X-Original-Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 16:30:47 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000 >Bob, It sounds like you did a great installation of the small gage wire. How did you prepare the wire terminations. Crimp or Solder, Insulated Terminals or Bare Terminals + Heat Shrink. If you used heat shrink, did you use one layer or two, Plain or Adhesive lined. This may be of interest to the LML to describe your methods that have obviously proven their worth for the past 8 years of flying. Thanks in advance for your reply. Best Regards, Mike Hutchins< OK, by popular request, I will try to highlight some of the significant points for wiring an airplane with small stranded wire. 1. Buy the wire. I used about 200 feet of MIL-W-22759/16-26 on my Lancair 320. It is not easy to find. Most aircraft part suppliers do not stock the smaller sizes. I bought mine at Superflite (800-323-0611). 2. Get striping and crimping tools if you don't already have them. Many of the professional wiring people will tell you that you have to have the expensive MIL-Spec tools to do a good job. That's probably true in general but if you follow step 3, below, I think you can get by with the less expensive tools. 3. Take your tools and your wire and practice, practice, practice until you have developed the skills necessary to produce stripped wires that are not nicked and crimped terminals that are solid and reliable. Examine your work with a magnifying glass if your eyes are a little weak like mine. Check each wire after it is stripped and each terminal after it is crimped. Make a note of the stripper setting that works for each wire size and always use that setting. 4. In my airplane, I used crimped terminals where ever possible rather than solder. I did not solder the crimped terminals. However, I installed several switches and other panel components that had solder terminals on them. In these cases, rather than soldering on a spade lug, I would solder the wire directly to the component and reinforce the joint with shrink fit tubing. 5. I used plain shirk fit, no adhesive lined, mostly just one layer but in some cases of soldered terminals, where it looked like the terminal may be sensitive to vibration or strain, I would double up on the heat shrink. 6. Helpful hint -- In general use the terminal recommended for the wire size you are using but, when use small wire like 26 gage, that is not always possible. Terminals designed for 26 gage wire are hard to find and in some cases, your avionics for example, the terminals that come with the radio are almost always designed for a larger wire size. You can use the terminal with small wire if you fold the bare wire back upon itself as many times as necessary to nearly fill the terminal in the area where it is to be crimped. Also, the area of the terminal that is crimped down on the insulation can be filled with small shrink fit. It is especially important that you shrink fit over the back of the terminal and the wire. 7. Wire your airplane, one wire at a time with a plan in mind as to where the wire bundles are going to be and how the bundles are to be secured. While you are wiring, use some temporary ties to keep the wires together, like those little wire ties that come with the kitchen baggies. Keep each wire long enough to provide a little service loop at the terminal. This will insure that the wire is not supporting the cable bundle and there will be negligible strain on the joint. 8. After you have ALL the wires connected, tie up your cable bundles for the last time and insure that the bundles are adequately supported to something solid. I used the plastic zip ties and few of those MIL-Spec cable clamps. I know this is old stuff for many on the forum but may be helpful to those just contemplating or starting their wiring. I have not had any problems with my wiring so either I have done it right OR I am extremely lucky. Bob Jude N65BJ