Return-Path: Received: from imo12.mx.aol.com ([198.81.17.2]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Thu, 31 Dec 1998 11:02:41 -0500 Received: from RWolf99@aol.com by imo12.mx.aol.com (IMOv18.1) id 2NDWa15846 for ; Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:59:29 -0500 (EST) From: RWolf99@aol.com Message-ID: <689d946.368b9f61@aol.com> Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:59:29 EST To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: Tire Clearance with Closeout Rib Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> I had a problem early on with insufficient clearance between my main gear tires and the cockpit closeout rib. I sent a note to the LNN several years ago. It seems relevant now, so here it is again: I have a problem with my 320 ... and I'm not alone. I have less than 3/8" clearance between my main gear tire and the cockpit closeout rib on one side of the aircraft. Almost half of the 320/360's I crawled under at Oshkosh '96 had the same problem. How can you avoid this and, if it's too late, how can you fix this? When it comes time to bond the cockpit closeout rib in place, the main gear leg forward pivot bearing is already attached to the front spar. It should be a simple matter to lay the gear into proper position by placing the assembled gear leg into the forward bearing, but it is not. I screwed this up and, evidently, so did several others. When you lay the gear in position, the forward end is guaranteed to be in place by the forward bearing. The aft end is eyeballed to be approximately straight fore and aft. Eyeballing this is not good enough! A better solution is to measure the distance between the BL-50 rib and the gear leg at the forward end and use a spacer at the aft end to ensure the distance is uniform. (This assumes that the BL-50 rib is in place as it is on the fast-build kits.) In addition, tape a 3/8" spacer to the bottom of the tire. And of course, inflate the tire to rated pressure first. I used a 3/8" spacer on the tire but only eyeballed the fore/aft straightness, and this is where I probably messed up. Okay. Suppose you've done all this and still you need more clearance? The closeout rib is 3/8" thick. If you cut away the fiberglass on the rib and scoop out the honeycomb, you can get all the clearance you need. (Still, hog out only as large an area as you need, and no more.) Fill in the honeycomb around the edges with micro and lay in 2 plies of new glass to replace what you cut out. As with any fiberglass patch, make sure the glass overlaps the patched area by at least 1 inch all around. (n.b. The cockpit closeout rib ply orientation is 0-90-0, not the normal 45-45). This solution has been reviewed and approved by Don Goetz at Lancair. - Rob Wolf rwolf99@aol.com p.s. While I wrote this blurb in 1996, I just did the patch two weeks ago... [Another consideration is that the tires are going to expand a bit with altitude. What passes for plenty of clearance at sea level with the tires inflated to 35psi may well turn into constant pressure on the closeout rib when you get to 8 or 10 kft. I inflated my tires to 55psi when I planned the clearance for the closeout rib, and wound up with an extra 3/16" of room as a result. FWIW. ]