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On the 235 your system is what is called out for on some service bulletin
or other (sorta), but The
spacer MUST BE ONE PIECE. Two (or more) washers on a smooth rod are used to
lock a rod in place in
some applications. My kit included a spacer, for something or other, that
fits over the rod and is
bored two diameters so it stops at the end of the thread. This spacer must
be cut to length on a
lathe. To get the correct length, put a washer on the rod, that the threads
will go through, but not
the main diameter of the rod. Adjust the rod end for down bottomed out.
Lock the washer in place
with a lock nut (like the rod end uses). Raise the gear to the full up
position turn the power off
and measure the distance between the washer and cylinder cap and cut the
spacer about ).005" longer.
In the bulletin the spacer floated and was stopped by the rod end stop nut.
That isn't a good idea,
lock the spacer against the shoulder formed between the threads and the
smooth part of the rod.If
needed I can look at my bulletins and send a copy. I can send a picture too
if needed.
In this same area the 235 plans has the inboard cylinder attach point about
3/8 too far forward. The
gear will raise and lower because of the slop the cylinder lug hole (no
ball joint) and bolt, but it
puts a strain on the cylinder rod and wears the seals. I think all cylinder
leaks can be traced to
this. The cylinder rod must be directly above and centered on the  over
center links. My neighbor
has a fix for builders that didn't catch this. I can send a picture of that
too.
Bill N7WB


[The manual calls for a 1.25" thick builtup phenolic structure to space the
inboard end of the cylinder back from the shear web... I was unhappy with
the angle that was formed between the rod and the o/c links so made it 1.5"
thick to keep everything in a straight line.

Thanks for the explanation about what's supposed to happen with that rod
end and the stops.  I'm sure I can adjust everything so the piston is
bottomed out for down and the stop sleeve controls the up amount.  I think
it can be done without the washers.  I checked the factory service bulletin and didn't find any which addressed
this issue... the only one I found which was related was the replacement of
the GM3A o/c link with the GM3B.]      <Marv>