Return-Path: Received: from pop3.olsusa.com ([63.150.212.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.5b8) with ESMTP id 953749 for rob@logan.com; Tue, 13 Nov 2001 11:29:16 -0500 Received: from smtp005pub.verizon.net ([206.46.170.184]) by pop3.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-71866U8000L800S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Tue, 13 Nov 2001 08:20:30 -0500 Received: from GCasey (calnet31-66.gtecablemodem.com [207.175.254.66]) by smtp005pub.verizon.net with SMTP for ; id fADDXOW07357 Tue, 13 Nov 2001 07:33:24 -0600 (CST) Reply-To: Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com From: "Gary Casey" To: Subject: Landing lights in the wingtip Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 05:32:40 -0800 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: <20011113064422.AAA27953@pop3.olsusa.com> X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> >>The maximum operating temperature of the plexiglass I am using is 180 deg F. From this experiment, I conclude that (1) the plexiglass does not need to be cooled other that what it will get by traveling through the air. (2) The light fixture needs to be insulated from the surrounding structure. A 1/4" phenolic block should take care of this. I will do a similar experiment to verify this later. What do ya think?<< Thanks for the real data - the world needs more of it. I agree mostly. The 160 temp of the lens is probably okay, but if the epoxy structure gets to 250 F it will definitely compromise its integrity. You propose to insulate the light, but that will cause its temperature to go up, possibly compromising the durability of the light itself. My thought was to mount the light on a piece of aluminum - I am thinking of changing the insert in the wingtip to sheet aluminum - to dissipate the heat out to a wider area and consequently lowering the temperature. Maybe what I should do is combine both techniques - only join the light to the "heat sink" in a couple of points, essentially partially insulating it, and then spreading the heat out to the widest possible area. Next thing I have to work out is how to aim it as the little one-point mount is bulky and made of zinc. The idea is to put the landing light as far out in the "pocket" as possible and then rework the mounting of the nav/strobe light to be as far forward and inward as possible. The strobe lens will interfere partially with the landing light projection, but I hope not too much. I've seen some RV's with this arrangement, buy they have a much fatter wingtip. I think the small IV wingtip would not allow this mod to be done. Gary Casey ES project. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://members.olsusa.com/mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please remember that purchases from the Builders' Bookstore assist with the management of the LML. Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>