Message-ID: <000b01c16832$89c495a0$3f0eb43f@f3g6s4>
Reply-To: "Dan Schaefer" <dfs155@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
From: "Dan Schaefer" <dfs155@earthlink.net>
To: "Lancair list" <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
Subject: Wing Removal
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 00:51:18 -0800
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Ted:

It's been quite a while since I had my wings off to trailer the airplane (a
235) to the test flight airport but here's how I remember it. Also, my LNC2
has the early 235 flap drive so if you have the later 320 flap drive, some
of this won't apply.

First, be sure that the wing tanks are empty because you'll have to
disconnect the fuel lines at the tank connections.

Next, disconnect the fuel lines at the wing tanks, then unbolt the inboard
ends of the aileron push-rods from the transition lever in the wheel wells.
Leave the inboard aileron push-rods alone, they don't need to be removed.
Remove the upper main gear doors - you may need to jack the airplane up and
move the gear legs slightly inward to get enough wiggle room to do this
(depends on your airplane) - I had to. On my airplane, these doors had to
come off for me to get to the outboard main spar bolts - if you can get at
your bolts without removing the doors, don't bother - just remember, you'll
have to get those bolts back in upon reassembly.

Disconnect all wiring that enters the fuselage from the wings. On mine, that
entails disconnecting several connectors - strobe and nav lights, aileron
trim, antenna BNC's (my transponder and glide slope antennas are in opposite
wings).

Unscrew all the flap hinge attach screws (do one side at a time and be sure
to support the flaps once loose) and you should be able to raise the
outboard ends enough to withdraw the flaps from their inboard drive pins by
sliding them straight out away from the fuselage.

With the flap removed, you can get at the rear spar connectors - an aluminum
bar bolted across the wing separation joint.

Remove the two inboard bolts (on each wing) at the rear spar aluminum
connector. There are four bolts on each aft spar connector, two on each side
of the separation. You shouldn't need to remove the outboard bolts
connecting the aluminum bar to the outboard wing panels. The nuts for the
two outboard bolts are hidden inside the wing and if they should become
loose, you'd play hell getting them tight again - so unless it's impossible,
leave them alone. Just be careful of the aluminum rear spar connectors that
will remain attached to the outboard wings panels, don't whack them on
anything so that they might get bent or knocked out of alignment.

Finally (almost) be sure to support the outboard wing panels and then pull
the main spar bolts, two on each side. There is one on each side of the
cockpit down at the end of the outboard spars with the head forward, and one
on each side in the wheel-wells just inside the stub-wing outboard rib,
heads aft (these are quite hard to access and I needed about a 10 inch
wobble extension on the ratchet wrench to get at them). These main wing
bolts all have captive nuts buried in the structure so when you put them
back in (they're tough to line up just right) be careful not to get one
started cross-threaded - getting at the nuts to replace them is well nigh
impossible!

Now, if I haven't forgotten anything, you should be able to slide the wing
panels straight out from the fuselage. This is a two man job as one person
will need to walk the tips while the other needs to grab the inboard end as
it separates from the stub wing. Also, any wiring that transitions from the
wings to the cockpit will come sliding out and you need to make sure that it
doesn't catch on anything as the wing slides out.

Piece of cake! Good luck and if I remember anything else I'll post it ASAP.

Dan Schaefer
N235SP


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