Message-ID: <009601c163ee$5e5ffdc0$3ee2c740@WilliamTBartlett>
From: "W T Bartlett" <wtbartlett@prodigy.net>
To: <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
References: <20011030054838.AAA18268@pop3.olsusa.com>
Subject: Re: lancair.list V1 #213
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:32:34 -0800
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Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com

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          <<  Lancair Builders' Mail List  >>
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>>
I should keep quiet about this subject, because the last time I mentioned it
the reception was somewhat cold. Now with the economic downturn it might get
a better reception. I think the correct way to paint prepreg is to fill the
surfaces with micro as well as possible. sand with 80 grit. clean surface.
Roll coat of gray polyurethane (not epoxy) to cover all surfaces. Let (not
longer than spec sheet recommends) dry. Roll two or three coats of white
Polyurethane (not epoxy) white high fill primer with medium nap roller.
This will leave you with a surface that looks worse than a badly painted
house wall because the roller pulls up little peaks of paint that don't lay
back down. Let dry as long as possible. work on interior or something. When
you can't wait any longer, sand plane using a body plane and 80 grit high
quality sand paper. Change paper often. Sand until you hit gray. Don't chase
low spots. If you get two gray areas and the white in-between is not sanded
leave it alone. When you get all mottled gray/white plane hunt down the
white that still shows roller marks and scuff those areas with  Scotch brite
and spread with lite weight bondo. spread at least 1" past low spot and
higher than you think you need to. If you did a half decent job filling the
really low spot with micro the bondo won't be very thick. This is the reason
that you use poly primer. Bondo doesn't stick well to epoxy. Now level the
bondo with 80 grit and your body plane. This sanding took me about three
days. I did use an orbital sander and an air in-line sander in some places.
Spray entire plane with gray primer and sand wet with 220. Clean with paint
prep (I think it's just alcohol and distilled water) spray with fine coat of
poly finish paint and start at beginning and spray 1 cover coat. You are now
done. Don Geotz used to argue that I had buffed my plane. I haven't. N7WB
(235) with leather interior and full panel weighs 912#.

Cardinal http://www.cardinalpaint.com/index.htmsells all kinds of poly
urethane paint for about 30% of what the automotive brands cost, but if that
makes you uncomfortable most of the automotive paints are almost as good,
but many of their systems don't offer poly primer. Cardinal's hi solid
primer http://www.cardinalpaint.com/6400.htm is good, but you can make it
lighter by using their white primer and power mixing it with micro. If you
use phenolic micro (expensive) it will be still lighter and easier to sand.
Bill N7WB


 Subject: Compatible Primers
> Message-ID: <3BDD5BF8.A1E33F83@uslan.com>
>
> >>The question is: Does anyone know of cheap sandable primer
> that can be used . . . . . <<
>
> I would be interested in your findings too. I would think
> that a white colored primer would be best. I was going to
> consider using "Smooth Prime" when I got to the point of
> completing sanding and having applied a "pin hole killer".
>

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Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
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