X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imr-db03.mx.aol.com ([205.188.91.97] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.1) with ESMTP id 6079904 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sat, 23 Feb 2013 14:03:07 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.91.97; envelope-from=Sky2high@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-mb05.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-mb05.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.41.76]) by imr-db03.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id C3D7338000058 for ; Sat, 23 Feb 2013 14:02:34 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-mtc001a.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-mtc001.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.235.1]) by mtaomg-mb05.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 9835EE000088 for ; Sat, 23 Feb 2013 14:02:34 -0500 (EST) From: Sky2high@aol.com Full-name: Sky2high Message-ID: <15d9.1ea55a0b.3e5a6c4a@aol.com> Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 14:02:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Nose Gear Strut To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_15d9.1ea55a0b.3e5a6c4a_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.6 sub 168 X-Originating-IP: [67.175.156.123] x-aol-global-disposition: G DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20121107; t=1361646154; bh=/8TJYKgHWT6iv6w2Ll0RVMmFG6j4MRHAjwPE4IirPL4=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=dHfpoHNmisQtk+ZTkB0rrD7aNDxgg1g53+il56PGM2DX+byK7o5ueDOVSXohpQN7u CH7suEy4/gHPORzVEvBZvtTspLcQBOvJdSRGr35KUdDcZnxc8plYpTC/SMc+roYfUR nev4gEkuG1Gzh+AVBmd1yMED2icwfwvq26TFKiyc= X-AOL-SCOLL-SCORE: 0:2:464908096:93952408 X-AOL-SCOLL-URL_COUNT: 0 x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d294c5129124a0caa --part1_15d9.1ea55a0b.3e5a6c4a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bucky is right. low nose wheel inflation can lead to "cupping" or scalloping of the outer edges (hard to see) which feels like shimmy. Grayhawk In a message dated 2/23/2013 12:05:20 P.M. Central Standard Time, bwhittier@ltol.com writes: First check wheel bearing pre load. ( less than a complete revolution when spinning by hand. ) Check the through bolt at engine mount to gear for tightness, but do not overtighten or will not free fall. Check welds at nose gear to engine mount for cracks. Check tire inflation ( I use 32 PSI in my 360 nose gear ) Check wheel and tire for balance. Check mains for flat spots and ( 45-50 PSI ) I do not have a self centering strut and has never been a problem. Bucky Whittier 360 BB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greenbacks, UnLtd." To: "List Lancair Mailing" Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 4:34 PM Subject: [LML] Nose Gear Strut At the moment, my focus is intently riveted on my nose gear strut. On the 10th landing back at KBVY yesterday, I felt (for the first time), a momentary vibration in my control stick. It was brief, maybe lasting 2 seconds. I have no idea what nose wheel shimmy feels like, perhaps one of you with experience in this area could elaborate. So here's what I've got, my strut dates from 1995 and is not self centering. I've got 4ZQ up on jacks and and when turning the nose wheel from side to side, there is no sound that might indicate air bubbles inside. I do notice that there is greater resistance when turning the wheel to the left as compared to turning to the right. There is some evidence of oil dampness on the strut. I have not yet removed the fork to see if there is any oil pooling up inside. At this point, I'm guessing that if this were the case, I would see it leaking down along the fork. I'm told by Ross at the factory, that the principle cause of nose wheel shimmy is a lack of fork oil, no oil....no dampening, etc. So my plan is to release pressure from the strut, check the oil level and cycle the strut up/down until there is no sign of air bubbles. I got some 20 weight fork oil from the local Harley dealer. My plan with the strut extended and full of oil is to collapse the strut, close the valve, set the plane on its nose wheel and re-pressurise the strut, and go fly. I'm all ears for nose strut advice/suggestions. Angier Ames N4ZQ -- For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/lml/List.html -- For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/lml/List.html --part1_15d9.1ea55a0b.3e5a6c4a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Bucky is right.  low nose wheel inflation can lead to "cupping" o= r=20 scalloping of the outer edges (hard to see) which feels like shimmy.
 
Grayhawk
 
In a message dated 2/23/2013 12:05:20 P.M. Central Standard Time,=20 bwhittier@ltol.com writes:
= First=20 check wheel bearing pre load. ( less than a complete revolution when=20
spinning by hand. )
Check the through bolt at engine mount to gear= for=20 tightness, but do not
overtighten or will not free fall.
Check wel= ds at=20 nose gear to engine mount for cracks.
Check tire inflation  ( I u= se 32=20 PSI in my 360 nose gear )
Check wheel and tire for balance.
Check m= ains=20 for flat spots and ( 45-50 PSI )
I do not have a self centering strut = and=20 has never been a problem.
Bucky Whittier
360=20 BB






----- Original Message -----
From:=20 "Greenbacks, UnLtd." <N4ZQ@verizon.net>
To: "List Lancair Mailin= g"=20 <lml@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 4:34=20 PM
Subject: [LML] Nose Gear Strut


At the moment, my focus i= s=20 intently riveted on my nose gear strut.
On the 10th landing back at KB= VY=20 yesterday, I felt (for the first time), a
momentary vibration in my= =20 control stick. It was brief, maybe lasting 2
seconds. I have no idea = what=20 nose wheel shimmy feels like, perhaps one of
you with experience in t= his=20 area could elaborate.
So here's what I've got, my strut dates from 199= 5 and=20 is not self centering.
I've got 4ZQ up on jacks and and when turning = the=20 nose wheel from
side to side, there is no sound that might indicate ai= r=20 bubbles inside. I do
notice that there is greater resistance when tur= ning=20 the wheel to the left
as compared to turning to the right. There is s= ome=20 evidence of oil dampness
on the strut. I have not yet removed the for= k to=20 see if there is any oil
pooling up inside. At this point, I'm guessin= g=20 that if this were the case, I
would see it leaking down along the for= k.=20 I'm told by Ross at the factory,
that the principle cause of nose whe= el=20 shimmy is a lack of fork oil, no
oil....no dampening, etc.
So my p= lan=20 is to release pressure from the strut, check the oil level and
cycle = the=20 strut up/down until there is no sign of air bubbles. I got some 20
we= ight=20 fork oil from the local Harley dealer. My plan with the strut
extende= d and=20 full of oil is to collapse the strut, close the valve, set the
plane = on=20 its nose wheel and re-pressurise the strut, and go fly.

I'm all ea= rs=20 for nose strut advice/suggestions.

Angier=20 Ames
N4ZQ



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