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-------- Original Message --------
From: Tim Jørgensen <tj@yacht-pool.dk>
/"I like your idea of putting the control horn for the elevator trim on
the bottom. Do you have any more photos? How did you mount the
phenolic/servo to the inside of the top skin? Did you just bond the
phenolic in with nutplates for the servo? Did you try a shorter control
horn and a longer stroke?"
/
The 1/8" phenolic is floxed in place on the top skin. I drilled 20 or
so 1/8" holes in the phenolic (not all the way through, though) so the
flox be able to form small "studs" into the phenolic. I used countersunk
screws to form studs to mount the servo to. I installed the servo to the
phenolic, ground the screws down to the smallest acceptable length,
connected the push rod and floxed the lot in place whilst praying that I
will be able to remove the servo if ever needed. Because I had to skip
the lock nuts for the clevises, I had to be very careful that the servo
motor was installed for the same amount of trim tab deflection up and
down, since there is no good looking way to adjust this later.
Yes, I did some experimenting with the length of the control horn. If
made much longer, the angle of the push rod becomes severe, leaving the
servo arm with quite some bending forces. This immediately induces slack
in the system.
As you can see in the photos, I made the control horn out of a piece of
T-stock and riveted it in along with the hinge.
Words of advice:
1: Bucking the rivets in these tight quarters takes some creativity but
it is possible. Buck the rivets before installing the rounded "lip" on
the top skin, otherwise bucking the rivets will be impossible.
2: Pay a _*lot*_ of attention to the gap in the top skin. It would be a
shame to move all the ugly hardware to the bottomskin and then mess up
the gap that was supposed to look ever so nice on the top skin.......
Very best regards
Tim Jorgensen
360MKIIFB / 60%
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