Return-Path: Received: from mail2.centuryinter.net ([209.142.136.252]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Wed, 7 Apr 1999 09:49:18 -0400 Received: from pavilion (ppp034.pa.centuryinter.net [209.142.129.176]) by mail2.centuryinter.net (8.9.3/8.9.3) with SMTP id IAA24867 for ; Wed, 7 Apr 1999 08:51:14 -0500 (CDT) Message-ID: <000c01be80fd$b51cd740$a3818ed1@pavilion> From: "J. N. Cameron" To: "Lancair List" Subject: LIV and LES Joystick Elevator Force Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 08:50:31 -0500 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> For Pat Weston & other builders: It's been a while since I put that assembly together, but your posting reminded me that the forks of the joystick were 'way too tight on mine, too. I solved the problem by putting the flanged Delrin bushings in my lathe and thinning the flanges by an equal amount on either side. If you don't do this, the sides of the joystick have to be spread a lot, and end up not parallel to each other or the bushing flanges. The downside of this kludge is that the thinner bushing flanges may wear out sooner, but after the fix the joystick moves very easily. With the elevators not connected, it requires almost no force at all. It's important to get as much friction out of the control system as possible, so keep at it until it will pretty much fall back and forth with a flick of a finger. If you don't have access to a machine lathe, you might accomplish the same thing by sanding, but it's going to be difficult to keep the surfaces flat and exactly at right angles to the axis. You'll also have to work them down with fine stuff so they are not too rough. Jim Cameron, Port Aransas, TX 78373, (361) 749-4266. LNCE N82500 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML homepage: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html