Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 20:25:15 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from fed1rmmtao09.cox.net ([68.230.241.30] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2b1) with ESMTP id 3149089 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 06 Apr 2004 13:58:03 -0400 Received: from smtp.west.cox.net ([172.18.180.57]) by fed1rmmtao09.cox.net (InterMail vM.6.01.03.01 201-2131-111-101-20040311) with SMTP id <20040406175803.JBYF2146.fed1rmmtao09.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> for ; Tue, 6 Apr 2004 13:58:03 -0400 From: Dale Rogers X-Original-To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] idle speeds X-Original-Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 13:58:01 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="----=____1081274281290_rs?ZP7_DRU" X-Original-Message-Id: <20040406175803.JBYF2146.fed1rmmtao09.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=____1081274281290_rs?ZP7_DRU Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit David, Re: > Yes, unfortunately true. I was having those problems trying to get the coolant to circulate. I thought I was getting a handle on it. The system was thoroughly burped. At 2000 RPM the coolant was level at about 140. At 3000 it would cool to about 100. This told me that I was just circulating a little better at the higher RPM. After about 5 min at 4000 RPM the coolant temp was still only 150 when coolant began to spray the canopy. I thought for sure I had a big enough catch can. At first I couldn?t figure out where the coolant was coming from. Until, to my utter dismay, I discovered it was coming from the oil vent line. > >... > I still have good compression all around, I just need to replace the water o-rings. I am going to use the TES o-rings. But even that won?t help if I can?t solve this damn circulation problem. I am really at whit?s end. There is no reason I shouldn?t be making coolant go round and round. > It might be worth doing a physical check of the pump system - perhaps powering it with an electric motor - and checking for flow volume and head pressure, via intake from a large tank of water and seeing how long it takes to fill another, known-size, tank (55 gal. drum?) _after_ going through the radiator. Just a thought ... Dale R. COZY MkIV-R #1254 ------=____1081274281290_rs?ZP7_DRU Content-Type: text/html; name="reply" Content-Disposition: inline; filename="reply"

David, I've followed your troubles with great interest. I don't have the answer but would give this advise to all builders when faced with a basic problem like yours.

Regarding the low circulation problem, there is something very basic wrong. It is not a detail or technical problem. When faced with something like this, I always suggest stopping all engine testing until the problem is identified. I know you think you have checked everything (been there) but you are overlooking something or have misinterpreted something you have looked at already.

I want to see you fly a rotary!

Tracy Crook (seen way too many engines smoked while testing the basics)

Yes, unfortunately true. I was having those problems trying to get the coolant to circulate. I thought I was getting a handle on it. The system was thoroughly burped. At 2000 RPM the coolant was level at about 140. At 3000 it would cool to about 100. This told me that I was just circulating a little better at the higher RPM. After about 5 min at 4000 RPM the coolant temp was still only 150 when coolant began to spray the canopy. I thought for sure I had a big enough catch can. At first I couldn’t figure out where the coolant was coming from. Until, to my utter dismay, I discovered it was coming from the oil vent line. L

I had coolant dripping from the exhaust and spilling out around the injectors. I was so disgusted with the whole project I didn’t even want to think about it. The next day I pressurized the cooling system and found a very slow leak of coolant into the front rotor chamber (as evidenced by the spray of coolant into the eye as I peered into the open spark plug hole and turned the prop – highly NOT recommended).

I still have good compression all around, I just need to replace the water o-rings. I am going to use the TES o-rings. But even that won’t help if I can’t solve this damn circulation problem. I am really at whit’s end. There is no reason I shouldn’t be making coolant go round and round.

With my work schedule re-building the engine will only set me back about … 3 months. Will make it thought to get to the next rotary roundup.

David (It could be worse, I could have to do a bunch more fiberglass work.) Leonard

The Rotary Roster:

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html

David Leonard (working on the cowl while I await parts to re-build the
engine)

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