Yes,
unfortunately true. I was having those problems trying to get the coolant
to circulate. I thought I was getting a handle on it. The system was
thoroughly burped. At 2000 RPM the coolant was level at about 140.
At 3000 it would cool to about 100. This told me that I was just
circulating a little better at the higher RPM. After about 5 min at 4000
RPM the coolant temp was still only 150 when coolant began to spray the
canopy. I thought for sure I had a big enough catch can. At first I
couldn’t figure out where the coolant was coming from. Until, to my
utter dismay, I discovered it was coming from the oil vent line. L
I had coolant dripping from the exhaust
and spilling out around the injectors. I was so disgusted with the whole
project I didn’t even want to think about it. The next day I pressurized
the cooling system and found a very slow leak of coolant into the front rotor
chamber (as evidenced by the spray of coolant into the eye as I peered into the
open spark plug hole and turned the prop – highly NOT recommended).
I still have good compression all around,
I just need to replace the water o-rings. I am going to use the TES
o-rings. But even that won’t help if I can’t solve this damn
circulation problem. I am really at whit’s end. There is no
reason I shouldn’t be making coolant go round and round.
With my work schedule re-building the
engine will only set me back about … 3 months. Will make it
thought to get to the next rotary roundup.
David
Leonard (working on the cowl while I await parts to re-build the
engine)
Re-build the engine? Did the cooling
problems damage something? Man, I sure hope that's not what you really
meant.