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Hermes SMTP Server) with ESMTPA ID 578cbe84ba971396b594e649b60f23e4; Sun, 28 Dec 2025 14:16:39 +0000 (UTC) Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------luoTJ8E5pF5WbqHg05gN0xkb" Message-ID: <6d107042-f286-4807-b926-51737b105c5a@verizon.net> Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2025 09:16:22 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 User-Agent: Mozilla Thunderbird Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: 13B Teardown To: Rotary motors in aircraft References: Content-Language: en-US In-Reply-To: X-Mailer: WebService/1.1.24866 mail.backend.jedi.jws.acl:role.jedi.acl.token.atz.jws.hermes.aol X-SPAM-LEVEL: Spam detection results: 0 AWL -0.236 Adjusted score from AWL reputation of From: address BAYES_00 -1.9 Bayes spam probability is 0 to 1% DKIM_SIGNED 0.1 Message has a DKIM or DK signature, not necessarily valid DKIM_VALID -0.1 Message has at least one valid DKIM or DK signature DKIM_VALID_AU -0.1 Message has a valid DKIM or DK signature from author's domain DKIM_VALID_EF -0.1 Message has a valid DKIM or DK signature from envelope-from domain DMARC_PASS -0.1 DMARC pass policy HTML_FONT_SIZE_HUGE 0.001 HTML font size is huge HTML_MESSAGE 0.001 HTML included in message KAM_MXURI 1.5 URI begins with a mail exchange prefix, i.e. mx.[...] RCVD_IN_MSPIKE_H2 -0.01 Average reputation (+2) SPF_HELO_NONE 0.001 SPF: HELO does not publish an SPF Record SPF_PASS -0.001 SPF: sender matches SPF record WEIRD_PORT 0.001 Uses non-standard port number for HTTP This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------luoTJ8E5pF5WbqHg05gN0xkb Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Thanks Andrew. I suffered through all 80+ posts in that thread and my head is spinning. My main question about the inner o-rings: the Mazda ones are not butt-end spliced but overlapped about an inch, why? What's the difference between iso- and cyan-  superglue when it comes to splicing o-rings? But I might just reuse my existing o-rings. Still soft. May not even pull the oil control rings. May get new dowel o-rings as they have set a bit. Finn On 12/28/2025 12:15 AM, Andrew Martin andrew@martinag.com.au wrote: > This is the notes on o'rings from my build, Info came from Ausrotary > forum members, I just saved the relevant info along with the workshop > manual for my engine, a 13b Renisis, your o'ring lengths may vary > slightly depending on model. Basically its just get the right sized > cord, cut it to length, glue ends with superglue. > >  Andrew > > On Sun, 28 Dec 2025 at 10:42, Les C lesphoto@hotmail.com > wrote: > > Any information on how to make your own "o" rings? > > Get Outlook for Android > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft on > behalf of Andrew Martin andrew@martinag.com.au > > *Sent:* Saturday, December 27, 2025 7:57:09 PM > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: 13B Teardown > Hi Finn > You can make your own orings. Actually this is now my preference > as it is extremely cheap & reliable process. > > that plane must be a real hoot to fly. Do you want to send it to > Australia? > > Andrew Martin > +61 0427477144 > andrew@martinag.com.au > > > > > On Sun, 28 Dec 2025, 6:29 am Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net, > wrote: > > I was unable to get compression on more than one chamber. > > So I removed the engine from  the RV-3B today. > > I decided to heat the front bolt with a propane torch for several > minutes when my HF 3' breaker bar began to deflect noticeably. > Then it > broke loose. > > Fortunately I still have the rear nut remover that I > fabricated (by > hand, no less) and welded up back in the late 90ies. Still > needed a 2x4 > to keep engine from moving. Also had to heat the nut with a > propane > torch. Wood block splintered, so used a 5" socket extension > between > counterweight tip and bottom right rear plate corner. > Recommend using > edge area of rear plate that is not used in your application, > just in > case it breaks off.  Evidence of threadlocker on both front > bolt and big > nut. Required a rivet gun with mushroom head on the rear shaft > to get > the counterweight off. > > Interesting that he rebuild uTube videos I've been watching do > not > mention threadlocker  on front bolt and rear nut. > > Anticipate several days of cleaning before I'll know what to > order. > > I wonder if the $80 "reusable" o-ring kit on eBay is junk or > if safe to use. > > Finn > > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: > http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html > > > -- > Homepage:http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub:http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html --------------luoTJ8E5pF5WbqHg05gN0xkb Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Thanks Andrew. I suffered through all 80+ posts in that thread and my head is spinning. My main question about the inner o-rings: the Mazda ones are not butt-end spliced but overlapped about an inch, why?

What's the difference between iso- and cyan-  superglue when it comes to splicing o-rings?

But I might just reuse my existing o-rings. Still soft. May not even pull the oil control rings.
May get new dowel o-rings as they have set a bit.

Finn

On 12/28/2025 12:15 AM, Andrew Martin andrew@martinag.com.au wrote:
This is the notes on o'rings from my build, Info came from Ausrotary forum members, I just saved the relevant info along with the workshop manual for my engine, a 13b Renisis, your o'ring lengths may vary slightly depending on model. Basically its just get the right sized cord, cut it to length, glue ends with superglue.

 Andrew

On Sun, 28 Dec 2025 at 10:42, Les C lesphoto@hotmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Any information on how to make your own "o" rings?

From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> on behalf of Andrew Martin andrew@martinag.com.au <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2025 7:57:09 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 13B Teardown
 
Hi Finn
You can make your own orings. Actually this is now my preference as it is extremely cheap & reliable process.

that plane must be a real hoot to fly. Do you want to send it to Australia?

Andrew Martin
+61 0427477144
andrew@martinag.com.au




On Sun, 28 Dec 2025, 6:29 am Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net, <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
I was unable to get compression on more than one chamber.

So I removed the engine from  the RV-3B today.

I decided to heat the front bolt with a propane torch for several
minutes when my HF 3' breaker bar began to deflect noticeably. Then it
broke loose.

Fortunately I still have the rear nut remover that I fabricated (by
hand, no less) and welded up back in the late 90ies. Still needed a 2x4
to keep engine from moving. Also had to heat the nut with a propane
torch. Wood block splintered, so used a 5" socket extension between
counterweight tip and bottom right rear plate corner. Recommend using
edge area of rear plate that is not used in your application, just in
case it breaks off.  Evidence of threadlocker on both front bolt and big
nut. Required a rivet gun with mushroom head on the rear shaft to get
the counterweight off.

Interesting that he rebuild uTube videos I've been watching do not
mention threadlocker  on front bolt and rear nut.

Anticipate several days of cleaning before I'll know what to order.

I wonder if the $80 "reusable" o-ring kit on eBay is junk or if safe to use.

Finn

--
Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub:   http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html

--
Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub:   http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html


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