|
|
This is the notes on o'rings from my build, Info came from Ausrotary forum members, I just saved the relevant info along with the workshop manual for my engine, a 13b Renisis, your o'ring lengths may vary slightly depending on model. Basically its just get the right sized cord, cut it to length, glue ends with superglue.
Andrew
Any information on how to make your own "o" rings?
Hi Finn
You can make your own orings. Actually this is now my preference as it is extremely cheap & reliable process.
that plane must be a real hoot to fly. Do you want to send it to Australia?
I was unable to get compression on more than one chamber.
So I removed the engine from the RV-3B today.
I decided to heat the front bolt with a propane torch for several
minutes when my HF 3' breaker bar began to deflect noticeably. Then it
broke loose.
Fortunately I still have the rear nut remover that I fabricated (by
hand, no less) and welded up back in the late 90ies. Still needed a 2x4
to keep engine from moving. Also had to heat the nut with a propane
torch. Wood block splintered, so used a 5" socket extension between
counterweight tip and bottom right rear plate corner. Recommend using
edge area of rear plate that is not used in your application, just in
case it breaks off. Evidence of threadlocker on both front bolt and big
nut. Required a rivet gun with mushroom head on the rear shaft to get
the counterweight off.
Interesting that he rebuild uTube videos I've been watching do not
mention threadlocker on front bolt and rear nut.
Anticipate several days of cleaning before I'll know what to order.
I wonder if the $80 "reusable" o-ring kit on eBay is junk or if safe to use.
Finn
--
Homepage:
http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
|
|