From: "Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2025 22:32:12 -0500
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Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: 13B Teardown
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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I may be able to reuse the ones in the engine. Not sure I'm comfortable 
making the inner ones that are exposed to combustion.

I started to look up prices of side seals. $200 for 12 or $24 for one. 
Are they now made of gold?
I'll try to not break the stuck ones, or maybe see if the used ones I 
have from decades ago will fit.
Then another $150 for the springs. I'm stunned.

Well, you're welcome to come pick up the RV-3B. Just let me know before 
the end of the year so I can cancel the weekend Light-Sport Repairman- 
Inspection Course I signed up for. I have repairman cert for the RV-4 I 
built so I really only need it for the RV-3B.

Finn

On 12/27/2025 7:57 PM, Andrew Martin andrew@martinag.com.au wrote:
> Hi Finn
> You can make your own orings. Actually this is now my preference as it 
> is extremely cheap & reliable process.
>
> that plane must be a real hoot to fly. Do you want to send it to 
> Australia?
>
> Andrew Martin
> +61 0427477144
> andrew@martinag.com.au
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, 28 Dec 2025, 6:29 am Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net, 
> <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
>
>     I was unable to get compression on more than one chamber.
>
>     So I removed the engine from  the RV-3B today.
>
>     I decided to heat the front bolt with a propane torch for several
>     minutes when my HF 3' breaker bar began to deflect noticeably.
>     Then it
>     broke loose.
>
>     Fortunately I still have the rear nut remover that I fabricated (by
>     hand, no less) and welded up back in the late 90ies. Still needed
>     a 2x4
>     to keep engine from moving. Also had to heat the nut with a propane
>     torch. Wood block splintered, so used a 5" socket extension between
>     counterweight tip and bottom right rear plate corner. Recommend using
>     edge area of rear plate that is not used in your application, just in
>     case it breaks off.  Evidence of threadlocker on both front bolt
>     and big
>     nut. Required a rivet gun with mushroom head on the rear shaft to get
>     the counterweight off.
>
>     Interesting that he rebuild uTube videos I've been watching do not
>     mention threadlocker  on front bolt and rear nut.
>
>     Anticipate several days of cleaning before I'll know what to order.
>
>     I wonder if the $80 "reusable" o-ring kit on eBay is junk or if
>     safe to use.
>
>     Finn
>
>     --
>     Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
>     Archive and UnSub:
>     http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
>

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I may be able to reuse the ones in the
      engine. Not sure I'm comfortable making the inner ones that are
      exposed to combustion.</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I started to look up prices of side
      seals. $200 for 12 or $24 for one. Are they now made of gold?</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I'll try to not break the stuck ones,
      or maybe see if the used ones I have from decades ago will fit.</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Then another $150 for the springs. I'm
      stunned.</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Well, you're welcome to come pick up
      the RV-3B. Just let me know before the end of the year so I can
      cancel the weekend Light-Sport Repairman- Inspection Course I
      signed up for. I have repairman cert for the RV-4 I built so I
      really only need it for the RV-3B.</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Finn</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/27/2025 7:57 PM, Andrew Martin
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:andrew@martinag.com.au">andrew@martinag.com.au</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:list-4478786@logan.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">
        <div>Hi Finn</div>
        <div dir="auto">You can make your own orings. Actually this is
          now my preference as it is extremely cheap &amp; reliable
          process.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">that plane must be a real hoot to fly. Do you
          want to send it to Australia?</div>
        <div data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
          <div dir="ltr">
            <div dir="ltr">
              <div><br>
                Andrew Martin</div>
              <div>+61 0427477144<br>
                <a href="mailto:andrew@martinag.com.au" target="_blank"
                  moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">andrew@martinag.com.au</a><br>
                <br>
                <br>
                <br>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, 28 Dec 2025, 6:29 am
          Finn Lassen <a href="mailto:finn.lassen@verizon.net"
            moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">finn.lassen@verizon.net</a>,
          &lt;<a href="mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net"
            moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">flyrotary@lancaironline.net</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I
          was unable to get compression on more than one chamber.<br>
          <br>
          So I removed the engine from  the RV-3B today.<br>
          <br>
          I decided to heat the front bolt with a propane torch for
          several <br>
          minutes when my HF 3' breaker bar began to deflect noticeably.
          Then it <br>
          broke loose.<br>
          <br>
          Fortunately I still have the rear nut remover that I
          fabricated (by <br>
          hand, no less) and welded up back in the late 90ies. Still
          needed a 2x4 <br>
          to keep engine from moving. Also had to heat the nut with a
          propane <br>
          torch. Wood block splintered, so used a 5" socket extension
          between <br>
          counterweight tip and bottom right rear plate corner.
          Recommend using <br>
          edge area of rear plate that is not used in your application,
          just in <br>
          case it breaks off.  Evidence of threadlocker on both front
          bolt and big <br>
          nut. Required a rivet gun with mushroom head on the rear shaft
          to get <br>
          the counterweight off.<br>
          <br>
          Interesting that he rebuild uTube videos I've been watching do
          not <br>
          mention threadlocker  on front bolt and rear nut.<br>
          <br>
          Anticipate several days of cleaning before I'll know what to
          order.<br>
          <br>
          I wonder if the $80 "reusable" o-ring kit on eBay is junk or
          if safe to use.<br>
          <br>
          Finn<br>
          <br>
          --<br>
          Homepage:  <a href="http://www.flyrotary.com/"
            rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"
            moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">http://www.flyrotary.com/</a><br>
          Archive and UnSub:   <a
href="http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html"
            rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"
            moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html</a><br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
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