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Message-ID: <B246FB3684B74B0F94C5C0C3E225C541@JohnPC>
From: <downing.j@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
References: <list-6702703@logan.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-6702703@logan.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Exhaust Leak at Turbo Outlet Flange
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2014 20:14:24 -0500
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  I had the nuts come loose on my turbo manifold on the block, I'm using =
with out the turbo, so I drilled the nuts and secured them with wire.  =
JohnD


  Thanks for keeping us all informed , helps us all to make sure we look =
for often simple overlooked areas.


  Cheers
  Christian=20
  Renises 13 b rv7

  Sent from my iPad

  On 26/01/2014, at 3:17 AM, shipchief@aol.com wrote:


    During the 8th flight of my RV8 with 13B Turbo, I experienced an =
exhaust leak at the turbo exhaust flange. I mistakenly used brass =
exhaust nuts  which are twice as tall as regular nuts. They work great =
on most engines. I should have know better, as the temperature at the =
turbo outlet, under the insulation is much higher.
    The brass nuts softened and deformed into a flange face at the =
washer! Once the tension was gone, the heat & vibration did the rest.
    The exhaust gasket blew where the gap was widest, at the top.
    The escaping heat burned thru the insulating jacket and the stick on =
reflective aluminum. Then the fiberglass cowl charred, I smelled that!
    I was close to my destination, and high, so I was able to pull off =
the power, put down the nosed and get on the ground without incident.
    I'm disassembling it now, looks like I need 4 high temperature lock =
nuts and a TO-4 exhaust flange gasket. I should review and improve the =
insulation over the turbine housing. Also I need to repair the charred =
area of the cowl, which might be in the form of an aluminum access hatch.
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  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">I had the nuts come loose on my turbo=20
  manifold&nbsp;on the block,&nbsp;I'm using with out the turbo, so I =
drilled=20
  the nuts and secured them with wire.&nbsp; JohnD</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Thanks for keeping us all informed , helps us all to make sure we =
look=20
  for often simple overlooked areas.</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Cheers</DIV>
  <DIV>Christian&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Renises 13 b rv7<BR><BR>Sent from my iPad</DIV>
  <DIV><BR>On 26/01/2014, at 3:17 AM, <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:shipchief@aol.com">shipchief@aol.com</A> =
wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">
    <DIV><FONT color=3Dblack size=3D2 face=3Darial>
    <DIV><FONT style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">During the 8th =
flight of my=20
    RV8 with 13B Turbo, I experienced an exhaust leak at the turbo =
exhaust=20
    flange. I mistakenly used brass exhaust nuts&nbsp; which are twice =
as tall=20
    as regular nuts. They work great on most engines. I should have know =
better,=20
    as the temperature at the turbo outlet, under the insulation is much =

    higher.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>The brass nuts softened and deformed into a flange face at the =
washer!=20
    Once the tension was gone, the heat &amp; vibration did the =
rest.</DIV>
    <DIV>The exhaust gasket blew where the gap was widest, at the =
top.</DIV>
    <DIV>The escaping heat burned thru the insulating jacket&nbsp;and =
the stick=20
    on reflective aluminum.&nbsp;Then&nbsp;the fiberglass =
cowl&nbsp;charred, I=20
    smelled that!</DIV>
    <DIV>I was close to my destination, and high, so I was able to pull =
off the=20
    power, put down the nosed and get on the&nbsp;ground without =
incident.</DIV>
    <DIV>I'm disassembling it&nbsp;now, looks like I need 4 high =
temperature=20
    lock nuts and a TO-4 exhaust flange gasket. I should review and =
improve the=20
    insulation over the turbine housing. Also I need to repair the =
charred area=20
    of the cowl, which might be in the form of an aluminum access=20
    hatch.</DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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