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Ernest,
Did you do the rebuild? If so, did you apply RTV on the lower portion
of the housings per the assy. manual? I'm talking about the section
of rotor/side housing that is common to the oil pan. If you don't put
RTV in this area, no amount of re-torquing will get it to stop
leaking.
Mark
On 8/20/12, Ernest Christley <echristley@att.net> wrote:
Ed Anderson wrote:
Sounds like progress, Ernest.
However, I'm not certain the equation of oil spitting to power. The oil
pressure should remain fairly constant from 2000- above rpm. Unless you
are referring to perhaps the plates flexing more due to the increased
power?
I think re-torquing the bolts would be the first step - who knows that
might fix the problem.
I presume you did place the "O" rings over the alignment "tubes"
between the plates that carry the oil when you assembled the engine?
Hmmm.....?
Certainly, I would have.
I seem to remember doing that.
But. Did I?
Crap.
OK. Let's think this out.
I THINK that I used all the parts when putting the engine together.
I KNOW that I did NOT perform the extensive re-torquing that Lynn recommends
from his experience with loose engines when
it isn't done.
So, my course of action will be to do a tear down to reach the case bolts,
and measure how much they move with a
re-torque. Given the leak is more of just a seep on the left side, even a
1/4 turn on a bolt would probably be enough
to seal it up. If I get an additional 1/4 turn on any left side bolt, wash
the engine down, bolt it back together, and
call it fixed until I see any additional seeping to prove otherwise. If I
do see any more seeping, I'll pretend my name
is Chris and tear the whole engine down. 8*)
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